Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I'm giddy! The day I get the Rostock from UPS (yesterday afternoon) is the day I unload my i3 Printer (for a profit!) to help make up what I spent here. SADLY, I will not be able to touch it until monday as I have prior commitments to do over the weekend . I will put up pics and any issues i might have along the way, as i go along. Hopefully I can video a print by late month (Work, kids, etc...). And YES, I've already named him. Hopefully he won't be lazy and inconsistent like my brother

On page 20 of the new manual the idler assy needs 4 washers. Are the washers to on either side of the idler assy? My screw only goes halfway thru the locknut with 4 washers...

m4r1n5 wrote:On page 20 of the new manual the idler assy needs 4 washers. Are the washers to on either side of the idler assy? My screw only goes halfway thru the locknut with 4 washers...

I'm pretty sure that's four washers per tri-support, not four washers per idler. The washers go next to the screw head and next to the nut, as they spread the load on the melamine.

Thanx! I've gotten to pge 24, but its my weekend so I'm going to put more than an hour in to it today. I'll post pics soon.

Page 51, to make sore, does not need to worry which wire goes where concerning the stop switches. black can go on either ends.

m4r1n5 wrote:Page 51, to make sore, does not need to worry which wire goes where concerning the stop switches. black can go on either ends.

Right!

After a break, I figured now is a good time to show some pics!

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... d5d2b9.jpg[/img]

Packed up Nicely!



[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... ca50d8.jpg[/img]

Out and ready to go.

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 2747ff.jpg[/img]

It started out slow. But once I got in the flow of the manual, I picked up the pace in this area of the build


[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 74ebe1.jpg[/img]

THIS area took some Eye coordination, gentle touch, and a LARGE mallet...... just kidding!....... din't need the gentle touch. Ha

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 38eb7a.jpg[/img]

Leveling these things was a Bear! OH, also I pulled my Lazy Susan off the dining table and put the printer on it. SOOO much easier than having to either walk around the thing constantly, or wear out the feet turning this thing!





[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 54567b.jpg[/img]

THEN I realized the top ends were too thick, so I had to file them down a bit.

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... b001a0.jpg[/img]

I cut the excess plastic off the rear of this because it ws too tight when connected to the stopswitch.

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... f18f75.jpg[/img]

I used the plastic method for the band, but needed tape to make it work. Also, I suspended the brackets with string to better to the belts on. I'm up to this point but I'm short some screws for the clamps, so I have to go buy some .

QUESTION...when soldering on the LCD board area, is it important that the solders do not touch other pins, or is it ok? I'm not good at this and some of my pins are connected through the solder

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 889fe4.jpg[/img]

m4r1n5 wrote:QUESTION...when soldering on the LCD board area, is it important that the solders do not touch other pins, or is it ok? I'm not good at this and some of my pins are connected through the solder

Correct. Remove the excess solder and make sure the adjacent pc board pads do not touch each other with solder. Also make sure you get a good connection between the pin sticking through and the pad.

I am not the electronics guru, but I'm pretty sure this is a bad thing. Each connection should be separate. You can still salvage this board. Just use a solder pump to remove the first try and you get a do over. A lower wattage, very thin soldering iron will help here.
solder pump link: http://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Vacuu ... ering+pump
Soldering iron(reasonable price): http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station ... ron+solder
Excellent link posted by foshon: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4
Hope this helps

solder should look something like this,

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 9e3be7.jpg[/img]

My problem, aside from barely any exp., was I used the one on the right..so I bought the one on the left. Batt powered but works well. I couldn't undo what I did, so I had to take a blade to it. SAD, I know, but the only way I knew how.

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 6896f1.jpg[/img]

BUUUT, I did much better with the proper tool.
[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 1c429e.jpg[/img]

I didn't find a Hobbed gear in my inventory so I had to skip that and move on until I call up and get one sent.

I'm getting ready to install the hot end, might do some tomorrow. Between work and kids, I don't get much sleep to begin with. So far though its been fun watching this thing go up.

QUESTION... The thermistor in the center of the Onyx bed. Is that supposed to just hang there unattached to anything? I read the manual (pge 100 & 101) and found no other instructions after the kapton tape suggestion. Is it just supposed to hang there?

m4r1n5 wrote:I didn't find a Hobbed gear in my inventory so I had to skip that and move on until I call up and get one sent.

I'm getting ready to install the hot end, might do some tomorrow. Between work and kids, I don't get much sleep to begin with. So far though its been fun watching this thing go up.

QUESTION... The thermistor in the center of the Onyx bed. Is that supposed to just hang there unattached to anything? I read the manual (pge 100 & 101) and found no other instructions after the kapton tape suggestion. Is it just supposed to hang there?

Pages 100 and 101 tell you to insert the thermistor into the hole and place RTV Silicone around it. When the Silicone dries you are supposed to solder the leads from the thermistor to the hotbed.

Two things could be wrong here, you are reading but not understanding or you have the wrong version of the manual. On page 101 at the top of the page it should say The Rostock MAX Assembly Guide, 2
nd Edition. If yours does not say second edition on it then download the latest one at http://www.geneb.org/rostock-max/Rostoc ... -Guide.pdf.
Make sure you read and UNDERSTAND what you are reading. The complete instructions on how to connect the thermistor to the hotbed are on pages 100-101 that's why I don't understand how you can say there are no other instructions
after the Kapton tape suggestion. Make sure you have revision 2 of the manual and make sure you download the latest Abobe Reader. You are missing something but not to worry we will figure it out. Let me know when you can read the
rest of the pages 100 and 101, I want to make sure your reader is working and you have the correct manual. Get back to me and let me know. It is very important that you do not miss steps.

m4r1n5 wrote:, so I had to take a blade to it. SAD, I know, but the only way I knew how.

[img]http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u65 ... 6896f1.jpg[/img]

Ouch.. I'd be very surprised if that board still works. It looks like you cut a bunch of traces on the circuit board when you tried to undo your solder bridges.

You should have either a) used solder braid, b) used a solder sucker/vacuum tool or c) let someone with more experience soldering fix it for you.

The yellow soldering iron probably would have worked fine if you got a smaller tip for it.

Two things could be wrong here, you are reading but not understanding or you have the wrong version of the manual. On page 101 at the top of the page it should say The Rostock MAX Assembly Guide, 2
nd Edition. If yours does not say second edition on it then download the latest one at http://www.geneb.org/rostock-max/Rostoc ... -Guide.pdf.
Make sure you read and UNDERSTAND what you are reading. The complete instructions on how to connect the thermistor to the hotbed are on pages 100-101 that's why I don't understand how you can say there are no other instructions
after the Kapton tape suggestion. Make sure you have revision 2 of the manual and make sure you download the latest Abobe Reader. You are missing something but not to worry we will figure it out. Let me know when you can read the
rest of the pages 100 and 101, I want to make sure your reader is working and you have the correct manual. Get back to me and let me know. It is very important that you do not miss steps.

My bad, read it again and saw the "solder to the pads" in there. I guess thats what the pink arrows were pointing to and not the wires. All good, just take me another 30 min to fix up.

Ouch.. I'd be very surprised if that board still works. It looks like you cut a bunch of traces on the circuit board when you tried to undo your solder bridges.

You should have either a) used solder braid, b) used a solder sucker/vacuum tool or c) let someone with more experience soldering fix it for you.

The yellow soldering iron probably would have worked fine if you got a smaller tip for it.

Thanks for brightening my day. Ill probably order one just in case then.

m4r1n5, I am glad that you found the information. Please make sure you read and understand what you are reading. The information you need is in the manual but if there is something you do not understand, please leave us a message
on this forum. We would rather you contact us a lot rather than make a mistake and create problems for yourself. We are here to help you at all times.
Have a great build!

I'm pretty much done with putting the printer together. However, I'm having issues with the hot end thermister popping out as I'm plugging in the wires or moving around The hot end . Once that's done I will be able to start using the software. I will add pics later on tonight As I am on my phone right now. I'm very excited to see it actually move! All this work kama hope everything runs right.

Make sure you secure the thermistor VERY WELL. You do not want it to pop out during a print or else very very very bad things will happen, i.e. melted hot end and potential for fire.

ApacheXMD wrote:Make sure you secure the thermistor VERY WELL. You do not want it to pop out during a print or else very very very bad things will happen, i.e. melted hot end and potential for fire.

Would it be safe to wrap that area of the hotend in kapton tape as well as having the RTV on there?