Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I recently finished the latest round of upgrades/alterations for my Rostock max, and figured I might as well finally get around to showing it, and a bit more of my workshop. it's not hugely impressive, since I've only in the past few years started acquiring CNC tooling. But there is a good quantity of more traditional tools in the workshop.

NOTE: I tried resizing the images as BBcode says should work, but it simply broke them in the preview. I'm sorry, but they have decided to be huge. So I spoilered all the images, which does work

So, to start, The printer has a cable conduit up one side to give me space for a 5V rail to the upper deck, to power the amplifier for the PT100s. It's major overkill and a bit ugly, and we plan to replace it with something nicer once the heated chamber is built so that we know our constraints. (I'm thinking to print one in sections and make the section breaks where the cabling to small heaters and fans for the chamber escapes) the other side will likely get a similar one.
The printer at the halfway stage, vomiting forth a veritable horde of wiring. (note to self, ask for larger extrusions on V3 to make it easier to run wiring, increase stiffness, and eliminate cable conduits. 80/20 1020 would be ideal, and then the towers could potentially match the machine)
the bed closer, kinda showing the bed and heat spreader. Also shows the Vandal switch, which considering the beauty of the Rostock, I had no qualms about the price, especially with the nice touch of the illumination. Fit in the normal hole size, although it wanted a 5V from the power supply for the LED, since it had a top voltage of 12 for the LED, and some people had had issues with them in the past due to transient issues (better safe than sorry) The heat spreader is 1/8 inch aluminum just cut out. I have a spare one since I ordered a 12X24 inch sheet. the vendor also shipped me a 1/4 inch sheet on accident, which I'm saving for now. (we did ask there customer support about it, they said to keep it, it wasn't worth the restocking and shipping) that I plan to face down to a lower thickness and just put PEI straight on top of it, to make sure it's dead flat.
one of the two heater blocks for the hotend, that's a PT100 volcano block, which while not as nice as E3Ds will no doubt be, is here now, and was free since we had scrap aluminum. both blocks are PT100 enabled, so we can easily just unplug a block topside from the amplifier and the terminal block to make swapping quick. No worries for me about melting the terminals on that block though, since it's fairly beefy.
And yes, all the wiring on the top deck passes through here, except the fans (and endstops). I didn't see a point since I had homogeneous wiring all the way down to the effector for them, and crimped terminals there. It makes debuging easier, since we can swap just about any part out quickly.
The PT100 amplifier sits inside a little casing, which is supposed to be covered, between the struts for the spool mount, and is fed by a 3 pin connector off a dead (at least now) computer fan, which is also sleeved and goes to the terminal block. I figured it looked nicer and was cleaner.
A little USB charging port to sit on the 5V rail, since we already had it up there, and wanted some more load on it, since while modern power supplies shouldn't need load on the rail to stay stable, we liked the belt and suspenders approach. Plan to make a cutout for it in the front plate under the lettering up top, since the acrylic is A) bent, and B), taken for something else. Haven't yet, as we haven't dialed in a cut profile for our laser on it, and would rather not wing it.
The something else mentioned above. E3D logo extracted from their website, to show our support for their excellent hotends, also eventually the status LEDs for the temperature controller, and maybe stuff like the the heater on the hotend, various fans, will hide behind the panels.
The latest iteration of our groove mount. since we have a laser cutter, we figured we might as well make it ourselves, and save the time/shipping from seemeCNC. Not that their stuff isn't cool.
The tool boxes, and the reel of fuses from mouser (yeah, I was dumb while doing something and blew F3.)
Filament storage. 3 5G buckets, with screw top gasketed lids, and silica driers in each bucket. maybe overkill, maybe not enough. Currently, two of the buckets are pretty full, and PLA is the emptiest with only 2 reels in it.

And now, the rest of the shop (some of it, at least. there's more stuff here, but i figured most wouldn't care) Aforementioned laser cutter Support equipment hiding under/behind the cutter. Duct goes through the wall of the barn and vents directly outside, well away from any doors in or any other ventilation. Some of the other tools on their stands. The cart which looks like it has shelves inside hides a belt/disk sander and a rotary oscillating spindle sander (I swear it has another name, but I can't remember it) Planner is just low enough to nearly escape the picture. An old lathe meant for wood-working, now sits behind the printer. It has a smaller brother and a grinder to go with it, but they are hiding elsewhere since it's not in use currently.


Beyond that, the Rostock is sitting on an ikea table in the shop, which we chose since a 19 inch rackmount server will go perfectly under it, and thus we could leverage that. But we haven't gotten around to finishing a design for a laser cut server chassis. But we want that so we can have an actual print server out there with matter control and so on, so we don't have to trek out with a laptop or SD card to do work. We're waiting on building a heated chamber until we make a run to US plastics to get poly, as well as acrylic for the laser. current plans are for a Rymnd.com style chamber. I have the new ball joints on order already, USPS says they will be here on Saturday (not that I precisely trust that) Eventually, I have plans for a watercooled E3D cold side, for a single hotend, as well as a dual. But that will wait for now, as until I know it's a problem, I don't plan to try machining one. A big concern would be humidity unless we put an actual radiator on it, rather than just a tub. Thus why I don't want to do that yet. We've already replaced the original rostock power supply with a modular one from Corsair, and my god it makes a huge difference in how much room there is down there. We may add an SSR and a 24V power supply to the thing, although they may end up external with connectors in the bottom, since we can hide them inside the table, and thus have more room for airflow in the base to cool the rambo. Which would also let us increase the size of the wiring to the heated bed without pissing off Geneb

Nice setup.

Xenocrates wrote: a rotary sander (I swear it has another name, but I can't remember it)

Oribital sander?

no, it's an oscillating spindle sander, now that I've gone out and looked at it.

Thanks for all the great pictures and it is quite apparent that you pay attention to detail.
If you have more pictures it would be great if you post them.

Thanks for the encouragement Eagle.
The full machine including the upper deck, with the top plate off (I dropped a bucket of filament on the top deck when I had set it somewhere else and it broke. I've found a source of melamine which we also get laser feedstock from (Toledo Plywood), and will make a new one in about a week)
The upper USB port, with engraved information. The port is wired up to the 5V rail in the top deck.
The Raymond style lower brackets for a heated chamber. The left one has the blind nuts installed. Co-incedentally, they are the same thread as are used in the T-nuts. Yay for cross-compatability. I plan to get the polycarbonate from US plastics in about a week, and then we'll have a chamber, although not heated yet (That's waiting on more disposable income). The chamber walls will be 1/8 inch poly, and the hinges are also clear poly which I'll cement to the walls so that the entire thing is clear. I don't want to obscure the beauty of SMCNC's printer design, nor any potential trouble-shooting information.
A closer shot of one of the brackets.

For those familiar with Raymond's design, you might realize it's meant for the V1, and I have a V2, which makes the top brackets entirely unsuited. However, I refuse to admit defeat, and also don't want to go for a larger or less visually appealing design. So I'm working on a revision of the lower bracket to make an upper bracket. I also hope to manage to do it without requiring any additional hardware beyond the blind nuts and such that are essential to the chamber. So the plan is for it to sit over the upper bolt with a channel for it, and have the lower bolt sit in hole through it, that should provide plenty of rigidity for a non-load-bearing component. Once I've had a chance to test it, I'll be posting the STL for the upper bracket, and those interested in the lower bracket can find Raymond's post on these very forums. After that's done and I get the hatchbox ABS playing nice (It just doesn't like 15C ambient temps I guess), I'll be working on cable-ducts for the sides of the printer which are entirely enclosed and could support nice things like installing baffled fans in the walls of the chamber, LED strips up the center of the walls, and heating of the chamber. Which will likely call for another arduino, although thankfully I can probably get away with a fairly stock one and a temp sensor shield rather than needing Mosfets or something, since I have relays designed for arduino switching of mains voltage. Dunno why, but we got a bunch from their kickstarter, and the don't seem that usefull for much else.

A laser cut server chassis is in the works for the server lack. But as it's edging towards freezing, and the laser is watercooled in a workshop with no real heating (mica-ceramics are the closest to purpose built heaters it has), we may have to drain it for the year before that can get done. I also have a version of our groove-mount cut from one of the pieces of spare melamine that was waste from SMCNC. That was mostly intending as a test piece before we cut the upper USB port, which was itself a bit of a test for the lower USB port, which will be a proper keystone jack with a little 6 inch cable to the rambo, since I don't want a long cable connected to delicate electronics running around the workshop. It will also reduce the quantity of silly people who might try to plug into it should we choose to show off our printer later. Of course, obnoxious people who want to plug their phones in might still try, but they will likely go for the upper ports first.

Antifreeze in the coolant?

teoman wrote:Antifreeze in the coolant?

Considering we're running distilled water in the system in order to keep stuff from building up on the laser tube. (the cooling sleeve is part of the blown glass tube, not a seperate piece), and the oil from skin is enough the cause the tube to fracture and do interestingly terrible things, I am hesitant to add potential new sources of contamination (silicates or suchlike.) About the only anti-freeze I'd feel safe from a build up viewpoint is some form of alchohol, which has it's own interesting problems, such as density, heat capacity, and volatility. We're also committed to tearing down the laser for the winter anyways so we can stuff an insulated plug in it's vent for the winter so that the other tools (and people), don't freeze too much in the shop.

Ethyl Glycol? I believe it is used some race cars as a substitute for water cooling.

teoman wrote:Ethyl Glycol? I believe it is used some race cars as a substitute for water cooling.

Ethylene or Propylene Glycol and water mixtures are common anti-freezes used in most vehicle cooling systems. But automotive antifreeze also includes silicate-based rust inhibitors, so avoid it for other applications. You'd want a laboratory grade Glycol, or one of the premixed Glycol-based thermal-transfer fluids. Or stick with water and add some heat to the equation when required...I'm thinking heat tape, or if it's suitably enclosed a light bulb to keep it above ambient.

Draining it works too, of course.

We plan to drain it, as we have a 6 inch vent hole in the wall for it, which is the only un-insulated opening. Also, at times, even pure glycol would freeze (It gets seriously cold in Michigan at times), and while we could put heat tape on it, or mix water in, I worry about the reduced heat transfer capacity of glycol (half of water pure, 3/4s as a 50/50 mix). Thus, as a combination of factors, and a desire to not freeze my arse off in the middle of winter, or have to clean snow out of the vent blower, or dig out the vent, we're committed to draining it.

Xenocrates wrote:We plan to drain it, as we have a 6 inch vent hole in the wall for it, which is the only un-insulated opening. Also, at times, even pure glycol would freeze (It gets seriously cold in Michigan at times), and while we could put heat tape on it, or mix water in, I worry about the reduced heat transfer capacity of glycol (half of water pure, 3/4s as a 50/50 mix). Thus, as a combination of factors, and a desire to not freeze my arse off in the middle of winter, or have to clean snow out of the vent blower, or dig out the vent, we're committed to draining it.

Had to help a coworker unfreeze her car once because of that. She put straight antifreeze in the car, no water at all. Straight antifreeze, the nonmixed kind will freeze at around -7F. We were sitting at -40F that day when she got off work. We'd run the car until the temp light would light up then shut it off for about 10 minutes then do it all over again. Not the best for the motor, but hey, you do what you have to do. Eventually we got the radiator unfroze, and drained some of the coolant out and replaced it with a couple bottle of water. Had her take it to a mechanic the next day to get the mix right.

Soon to come, pictures of the heated chamber installation, the brackets and the STL for the upper bracket, which is a modification of Raymond's chamber brackets, redesigned to fit on the V2. Not tonight however, as we went to obtain a prodigious amount of feedstock for the laser, which was almost entirely cut to size. 4 4X8 foot sheets of eight inch acrylic and 10 5X5 sheets of Baltic birch plywood, as well as a 4X8 of 1/4" black melamine for Rostock related stuff. Unfortunately, the mellamine they had in stock was only single sided. Fortunately, I have lot's of black paint, and a paint sprayer, which should make the back-side mostly blend in.

Also obtained were polycarbonate for the chamber, which has been cut to fit but not drilled and fitting, a pint of poly cement, and poly hinges. The entire chamber will be completely clear, except the brackets, which are relatively small and close to the towers.

As promised, the pictures of my machine as updated, and the STL attached to the post is for the upper bracket. Thanks again to Raymond for the original design, and for his blessing on sharing the modification.

The polycarbonate hinge, one of four that hold the door on, pre-mounting. A shot of the upper bracket, pre-blind nut insertion: A note for those doing it, I find using a heated blind nut to make a ledge inside the holes, then drilling it with a 5/8 bit (I think that's the size), works much better and faster than hot-fitting them all entirely. You can also either glue them in place with an acetone ABS slurry like i did, any other sort of glue, or leave them without it. Friction holds them in pretty well. This also leaves the threads clean and clear, which was a problem on hot-fit ones.

The side view showing the cut away for the end stop screws: The other side: Front view of the printer with the chamber installed: How convenient: Poorly lit picture of an experiment with using a paint pen on the edges of the melamine, post install: Picture of the heatspreader for PEI. Right now I'm just waiting on the tape, which should come in tuesday. I'll be attaching the PEI directly to the aluminum, since I had the tools to face it flat, and then sanded it for good adhesion/appearance. Lasercut nozzle tray for E3D nozzles, including the number of dots for each size. There's a Volcano version too. It's supposed to sit on little legs in a drawer, but the drawer, like the server rack for the table isn't finished yet. And I wasn't kidding about a lot of laser feedstock. This is a picture of the pile of plywood. Everything above the sticky note is 1/8 inch, and was cut yesterday to 16X20. Three of the colors of acrylic, cut to 16X16 squares, all stacked up. Did you know that if you cut florescent red and blue acrylic, the resulting dust looks like cotton candy when they mix on the floor? And the final pile of acrylic, all lonely and stuff.

Great pictures of a great job! Thanks for all the pictures!

Some additional work going into the printer, now that it's warm enough that I don't have to absolutely baby it. It's finally heating the bed to temperature on it's own, even if it takes a while (Large mass of AL as the build plate).


Work that's been done I haven't mentioned here:

I Replaced the PEI on build plate, and made a spare. The older PEI was a first attempt, and ended up with air bubbles, and then warping from a careless application of a heat gun. I'll be cutting the old piece down for some of the ENABLE folks around here.

Cleaned up top deck wiring:
Added adhesive wire management points, and generally bundled it together better.

Refilled and tested laser cutter:
Went absolutely flawlessly. Our first sheet was challenging, with spacing between parts set at paper thickness. Cut so beautifully that we didn't have any cleanup to do and got full drop out.

Designing printed brackets for chamber heater relay:
As I'm using a "IoT Relay" that comes with pre-wired plugs and an IEC in, as well as a large control voltage range, there weren't pre-designed brackets, nor were they considerate enough to include screw holes to mount it to something. The first revision of brackets (which are on Repables) work with wafer head screws. But I forgot I don't have any of the correct size to spare (Yay computer re-assembly). So the second revision is printing now, with wider and deeper counterbores for the button head screws (11MM diameter, for those curious). It will mount to the bottom side panel that I haven't put a wiring duct onto.

More cooling, and another newly designed part:
I went ahead and got both a Berd-Air, and two more layer cooling fans. We'll see if they all work together without blowing a fuse. I went ahead and printed up a little clip for the Berd-Air that should be able to go onto the 713Maker mounts, and accommodate the wire loop on them. Once I get a chance to test it, I'll post it.

Wiring random stuff together:
Not quite random. But for the moment, I've got the wiring for the chamber heaters together using large crimp connectors as my split point for it to go to the two fixtures, and solid core wire from the crimp point to the fixtures, as that should move much, but the stranded wire might need plugged/unplugged. I also wired together a harness that will allow me to use my fans in any combination, as they get individual connectors.

Worked on design for larger printer:
I've been doing most of my layout on paper, and sourcing components. Once I'm done with figuring out most of how it goes together, I'll do up a cad model and finalize my BOM. Current approximate costs are 3500$ USD. Yes, those pictures of white paper in the gallery are the design so far, and those are yard sticks for scale. Bit of a big fellow. I'd be more than happy to talk more about it with people who are interested in it, but it's not an immediate project.

Wheeled base for printer table:
We went ahead and picked one up, since it was on sale at woodcrafters. Seems to work well so far, and most of the other stuff in the shop is on wheels for ease of reconfiguration.

Stuff still to do:

Test Rambo control of chamber heating, and document:
Need to test that A) Firmware to treat chamber as additional hotend works, B) Relay switches when commanded to by Rambo, C) That impromptu chamber temperature sensor works. (Actually an E3D heater block with the thermistor mounted that's spare. I plan to get 5 screw in thermistors, and update the thermistor E3D regular and volcano blocks, as well as the stock hotend to them, as well as make a little aluminum or copper plate that one threads into for a better temperature sensor, but that's once I have money again (anniversaries are expensive, at least if you like your current girlfriend, and happen to be a broke college student. It's even worse when it's valentines day as well))

Install chamber heaters:
I need to test that the wiring harness and bulbs work, and then decide which bulbs to work with first, as I have a IR filtered bulb, a ceramic heater, and a heat lamp bulb, all the same wattage, to test. Harness is parallel so I can test them either alone or in pairs. I may need to create a mounting puck to go under the bases though, which would be annoying.

Trip to Chicago:
There's a convention meeting in Chicago, to which my father and brothers will be going (I'm staying home to take the printer apart again). They will be picking up an 80W laser tube, a rotary attachment for the laser, and some other stuff while in Chicago. So you may see some more spiffy laser cut stuff from us soon.

Additional work on alternate beds:
We'll be cutting a Baltic birch circle of the correct size for the bed to print Nylon on, and engraving registration on it, too. Once that's cut, we can use the sheet it came from to register the glass bed in the laser and engrave registration on that too.

24V's for the bed:
We plan to obtain soon a 24V, 21A power supply, along with the circuit breakers and connectors(Powerpoles, thanks to this lovely forum for point me at them). It will be an external supply, with automatic failover to the internal 12V supply. There will be proper protection on as much of this stuff as possible, and it will have both a printed portion to the external box, for mounting the DIN rail breaker and other components, and a laser cut case to make sure that if the chassis ground starts to float that people aren't shocked.

Print server and laser cut rack mounts:
We happen to have several older extra motherboards and CPU's, as well as hard-drives (we assembled a 6TB NAS out of spare parts, to put it in context). So we'll be putting together a design for a laser cuttable 4U rack mount case, since the table we use for the printer is an Ikea Lack, which will perfectly accommodate a 19 inch rack. There sadly aren't designs already available, so once it works, we'll be releasing those as well. It's some days of solid work away though. Once that's done, all our slicing and print control will be done on one of our spare computers that lives with the printer permanently, and another rack mount case will be cut to fill out our other impromptu server rack.



Imgur gallery of all the various stuff mentioned here, where pictures are available:
http://imgur.com/a/Z8btV

As always with my stuff, let me know if anything in particular interests you, and either I'll elaborate on it here, or else I'll start a thread (or find an appropriate one that already exists) for it.

Any chance you can fix the image links on the first post in this thread?
I always enjoy reading your posts. and you Bred air clips should come about the time i need them
I also would enjoy reading about your laser cutter adventures I would love to be able to afford a cutter that could cut up to the melamine thickness that SeeMeCNC uses but I expect like a lot of stuff it would require a lottery win...

also on the wish list is a water jet cutter that will take up to 10mm steel but that one is outside the bounds of even millions to one possibility

Now that a laser cutter might get into the realm of affordable (under $5000 ) if i revert to a diet from my 20s of ramen noodles and beer for a year or two

The images seem to be working. They're in spoiler tags though, which makes the post more compact until you click the little spoiler box to expand them.

And I'm glad to hear your vote of confidence wind. It's really nice to know I'm not shouting into an empty room.

well they were not working when I clicked on them about an hour ago where are they served from? they work fine now.

how did you clean up the top deck wiring?
I tried to lay it out so that things that had to cross did so at right angles and also I twisted most things as well but it is all still stuck down with the tape on my todo list is to try to come up with som logical buss designs for the top deck to make future unknown projects easier to wire up.

They are served from Imgur, which is usually reasonably reliable, and one of the biggest free photo hosting sites. The rest of the images are served up from the same place.

Mostly I did the same thing as you, although I also have that big terminal block (Which may need to be replaced with a nice DIN rail block so I can put even more connections through it), and used 3M Command adhesive wire clips to anchor them in place. With the amount of space left available up there, and the lack of shielding on most of it, it's hard to get a perfect solution.

So, less progress than I would like, but some progress, and some set-backs.

Berd-Air clip V3 (The one I actually was printing with) failed and released the Berd air into prints, causing them to fail, twice. Second time it was so covered in crap that I used a jigsaw to release some of it, and didn't notice I nicked the aluminum. So that's a fail. Haven't gotten around to replacing it yet.

Got a Bondtech at MRRF (I was the blond guy with the scruffy beard in a scruffier brown jacket, if you're curious and were there Sunday). Two minor annoyances with that. Big one is that my original Bowden tube is too short, so I had to order a replacement from Filastruder (Which got set-back itself, but more on that latter. Thanks Tim.). Second one is that the left-handed one released recently, and would have been more convenient to work with.

Heaters are installed. That's a positive, and they work for extended periods without issue. Don't have firmware control on them yet, as I was working on it when I got told I was on an engineering freeze. Which also delayed the Bondtech install.

As yet, sadly no laser cut birch for the bed. Been busy with school and event stuff, so we haven't pried time loose to make that. I may get it done soon, but there are a few new laser cut designs for our wargaming stuff first.

I messed up, or one of my extensions did, when I was ordering the new bowden tube from Filastruder. I only noticed it when the tracking number said it was returned for insufficient address. So that's on it's way back, and I re-ordered it after a quick email with Tim. If you're reading this, thanks for not treating me like an idiot and getting to me within an hour even when things are busy over there. So I should be back in operation soon.

Built new shelves in the workshop (But not the rackmount cases for a print server yet), so in any later photos there will be a new back-drop. They actually hold almost all the stuff that should have gone on the last set but didn't

Got held up on making the E3D heat exchangers (I sense a common pattern of being overly optimistic here), and the college is starting moving the lab in 2.5 weeks, during which I have a large number of other parts to work on, so I will likely be delayed on that until fall, or else will make them on the local maker space's Colchester (or their precision lathe) and hand tapping it. Not a huge problem, but an annoyance.

Being a broke student with expensive hobbies (Wargaming isn't cheap, nor is messing with the printer), I haven't yet gotten around to buying the stuff for a 24V bed. Especially as the main power supply died on us (Fuse was not rated for high temp operation and needed to be replaced, which we had no time for). So there's now a digital PSU in there that should handle the loads and temp fine (And is still modular), while retaining stability with low loads on the secondary rails. We also did not get the new laser tube or rotary attachment yet, since the idea of bringing back a 3+ foot glass tube that you can't get fingerprints on or it explodes in a car did not appeal after all.

I can ensure you that you are not shouting into an empty room.
I find your posts to be intelligent, and well worth the read and I am absolutely sure that many read your posts but many read and learn but are the
quiet types and do not leave many messages. I am the opposite type where my big mouth gets transferred to my fingers then to the keys.
What is your major in college? By the way, Wind and I are both into our 60's and still enjoy the knowledge we get from the younger generation who
come on and are not afraid to share their knowledge. Thank you for the time it takes you to type up all that you do and thank you for the willingness to
pass on what you know.

Some of our members are in their 70's and beyond and all appreciate your great posts.

My major in college is Mechatronics, with a Computer Numerical Control Programming specialization, but after that is done (Another two or three semesters), I'll be majoring in Engineering. The college is actually working on putting together a 3D printing set of classes, and I've been helping with some of the curriculum and troubleshooting with their machines, although it is rather different working with Taz 5's.

Thanks for the feedback and complements Eagle.

It works both ways, Eagle. Those with life experience have things to teach the younger generation as well, be it people skills, one-off fabrication techniques that remain valuable to the hobbyist, or some other thing that you only learn out in the real world. I'll be joining the 60's club in a couple years. My Dad is 85 and is still actively collaborating with his former graduate students, even though he retired 20 years ago. Age is no barrier to continuing to learn.

Eric wrote:It works both ways, Eagle. Those with life experience have things to teach the younger generation as well, be it people skills, one-off fabrication techniques that remain valuable to the hobbyist, or some other thing that you only learn out in the real world. I'll be joining the 60's club in a couple years. My Dad is 85 and is still actively collaborating with his former graduate students, even though he retired 20 years ago. Age is no barrier to continuing to learn.

I agree that age is no barrier to learning. I have learned a lot and am still learning life's lessons, and technical things. I was
an Electronic's Technician for the Navy and spent most of my time on submarines and I love to learn. Thats why guys like Xenocrates,
Mhackney, Polygonhell, 626Pilot, JimGuitar, GeneB, and others whose name escapes my dwindling mind, are so important to this forum.
They are all knowledgeable people who do not mind sharing their knowledge. I try to make the board have a slightly happier tone to it
and I love welcoming new people to the forum. Thanks for your words Eric because they do help, you make me realize that the older
generation still have something to give.

Forward or Aft ET? For the record I was AFT. Hope to show the progress on my printer soon. Mostly stock, but there are a few probably useless additions I have made. This thread is my prime example of how I would like mine to look. Kudos.