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The first is just fun and I wanted to see how I did at calibrating the machine.
The second project is the real one. But I don't understand why I see two different "sizes"... the yellow one is coming from Fusion 360 straight to Repetier printer. It looks like it is the correct size (in comparison to the print bed).
The blue one is the same file, but I transferred it (correct terminology?) to an STL file, then uploaded that file into MatterControl. It's HUGE! Why?

Thanx!

Cm to inches or mm conversion error?

That is a print with a large footprint. Give it a go but it is a little ambitious.

You're asking me something I do not understand.
I designed this in Fusion 360. I sent the command to print it to an STL file. All seemed fine, but this is what shows up in matterControl.

A little ambitious? Not sure what that means at all.

Matter control has an option for scale if i rwmember correctly rhen you can set the scale from inch to 10cm.

I regularly use the process you describe. And i do not have to set anything.

Select the body on the left. Right click and say export as stl.

Yes, I see the scale... not sure what the total effects are on changing the units of measure. I would 'assume' the actual measurements remain the same, only that the units of measurements changes. But I don't know squat. I'll experiment.

Thanx,Teoman.

In my humble opinion, it would appear as though the dimensions for your printer in Mattercontrol are off. This is just my guess based on the ratio of height to diameter of the transparent blue cylinder in your second screenshot.

I would check your machine settings in Mattercontrol to make sure your machine dimensions are set properly.

I did the same protocol for a different model and it came out fine (in mattercontrol).
However, the printer wants to begin printing halfway up the Z axis!

I have NO idea what to even look at--I've already re calibrated (checked the Z height--all is fine).

I had a 'puter virus, as it turns out.
I eradicated it, and deleted (via program and manually) all printer files. Reloaded, re-calibrated...now all is good. Uploaded and printed a couple things.

*note* the glue stick works a little too well. upon completing a print what is the best way to remove the printed object from the bed??
Am I putting too much glue? This baby sticks like a 'mutha.

thanx in advance

That looks very nice.

If you have the time just drop the plate and everything in hot water and let the glue dissolve.

Yeah...I put a small puddle of water around it and allowed a few minutes to pass. It came unglued rather simply.

New wrinkles about printing. I think I'll open a new topic....has to do with de-lamination, temperatures, and what happens if part of the glue lifts from the surface on a large printing plane.

Print a skirt of 10 loops with 0 distance around the part.

Run tests with different bed temps ( i print at 115 degs with a pei sheet).


Do a hollow tower lowering the temp every 10 mm. Inspect tower for durability and cosmetics and pick your optimal temp. Perform destructive testing on tower.

Hmmmmm....
(here's the post: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=9032)

skirt--it printed one. I get what you're saying, however. I'll poke around and see if I can figure out how to attach it. Should be somewhat obvious.
What is a pei sheet?
Do you have a print gCdoe for the hollow tower? WOuld you send to me, please? How do I lower the temp every 10mm??
Big Thanx!

I shall try to dig it ou. But basically you get any tower shape.

Select spiral vase.

0 top layers.

One bottom and one side.

Then manuall edit the gcode to diminish temp every 50 layers. There is a youtube vid somewhere.


Check out the skirt option. It should be evident.

if you do the skirt as teoman stated and all you really need is one layer of glue stick(that is all I ever use, goes on smoother and has more consistent sticktion) if you let your printer cool down the print detaches itself when using ABS.

I've printed many large hollow objects on my MaxV2 and I've fought many a warping issue and all have been solved by having a good, well adhered first layer and keeping drafts off the print. My standard bed temp is 85C for ABS.

cool beans.
Thanx, Neptune.
Cannot wait to get back to it! (later today)

Damn... the first print everything is fine. The second print the extruder won't climb to target temp...it gets as high as 224 but then hovers around 220.
F me.

Oh, and I just checked/changed the PID (before first print)

Anyone? What do I change? Wiring somewhere?

Thanx...

Assuming it ever gets over 220 if you set the temperature higher, then the issue is the PID values.
Autotune is often way to aggressive in I and D settings resulting in a tuning that will always be just shy of the target.

Hi, Polygonhell,

When I first fire it up (printer) it climbs to 228 just fine. Upon printing (getting warmer--the machine, I presume) temp hovers around 222. Upon a second print (first being no more than 20 minutes) machine will not get above 225. If I reduce setting to just get it going, the high temp lowers and hovers around 218-217.
Also, in a long print last night I noticed after an hour that the LCD on the printer (was printing from SD card) showed DEF for both bed and extruder, and the printer was still going through the movements (without laying down material).

I called Matter Hackers (where I purchased it) and relayed the above. The guy said to try turning off the extruder fan. If that doesn't work check the wiring. I have a meter (but not real skilled at using it. He said he thinks the resistance in each wire (from brain to extruder) is between 50-100 Kohm... anyone know about this sort of thing? Mechanics is my thing, not electronics.

I have experienced a similar issue with the temps floating lower and lower. Subscribed...

So...upon suggesttion of Matter Hackers, I disconnected the extruder fan. (I ONLY print in ABS.)

I checked the resistance and it was spot on (wires to extruder).

Been printing for a couple hours now. ALL good. NOZ doesn't drop below 228+ (I have it set at 230).
Bed is almost perfectly at 80.

I made a fourth wall for printer box.
I'll show pics of the print when completed. Send me a break-a-leg that all goes well for the next 24 hours!

Damn printer turned OFF--yeah, all lights out--like it was switched OFF after 2+ hours of printing. Damn! It was performing FLAWLESSLY up until that point.

Anyone think it was an overheating problem? I had a fourth wall on the box surrounding the printer.

If it turned off it's likely a power issue, the power supplies have safeties that shut off if too much current is drawn, either there was a temporary short, the PSU overheated or it's just a bad PSU.
Given the earlier def readings, I'd very carefully check the hotend wiring, def means that for at least an instant the thermistor was reading out of range, usually either a short or a loose wire. If the thermistor wire is occasionally causing issues, i'd suspect the rest of the hotend wiring.

Hmmmm. Thinking.
I checked the wiring. All seemed okay. The resistance was consistent with both wires, and with some "jiggling" added.
The PSU is the power supply, yes? This is a first for it--only a lot of "small" print jobs, ie 20 mins max. This was going for 2+ hours. And, I added the fourth wall. With the light bulb in there maybe it got too hot?

Thanx

G

I'd strongly recommend a close visual inspection of the wiring especially at the hotend, if you had a def, you either had a short or a disconnect occur in that wiring.
yes PSU = Power Supply
I've seen issues with wiring that will trigger at particular positions of the head, because it happens to put force on the wiring in just such a way that it causes a short or disconnect.
The PSU's aren't the best in the world, but generally if you have issues, it's usually at the point you start the preheat, since it's pretty much the only time both heaters run at full power.
Having the Base inside the enclosure might cause temperature issues, it's just hard to say.