Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hey guys, so I'm starting to work more with PLAs, and it turns out the the PrototypeSupply/ToybuilderLabs/Inland blue PLA is translucent, which is kinda cool.

But when sanding, the surface turns opaque and totally loses it's sheen. Is this normal for PLA? or just for the translucent stuff?

I've tried polishing with oil, auto wax, and applying an acrylic sealer, and while the sealer did lessen the effect, it's still obvious and the sand marks are still opaque compared to the rest of the mode.
The tip was coated in an acrylic top coat, the rest was just sanded and buffed for a bit.
(I know that this is a very sloppy print. It was printed fast, and I sanded and filed the entire model for practice.)

Is there something that can be done eliminate the scuffs from sanding and filing? Is it something that happens with all PLA?

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fTRbA ... 26-h893-no[/img]

And,,,, your image didn't come through.

What about this stuff? I use it but haven't tried it on translucent PLA.... it may work:

http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html

Sorry, I'm trying so hard to not have to post images to imgur when I have a perfectly good google photos collection that supports automatic syncing with my phone.

In case the updated link in the OP didn't work, here's an imgur version:

[img]http://i.imgur.com/Tn5bPGE.jpg[/img]

I don't have any experience with PLA yet (but I have a roll of translucent blue that I'll try soon), but wouldnt heating it back to its plastic temperature remove the white marks?
I would try using a heat gun.

I heat my PLA prints up with a Heat Gun and the marks magically disappear!

Interesting tip about the heat gun. looks like my local harbor freight has a cheapy one for $10.00. I might try that this weekend.

You can also gently and briefly allow a flame to touch the surface.

If it is really pla the you can try methylethylketone.

Its nasty stuff, but works like acetone. You can either buy it as MEK or it also exists in PVC pipe 2 component glue and automotive brake cleaner.

Read MSDS!

And try on a test piece first.

I have heard of using rubber cement vapor in a big glass jar on a heated surface for PLA. I'm sure there are people who have done it and can tell you how to repeat their process.

I think it's something better done outside. The vapor is extremely toxic, and if it detonates, it could blind or kill anyone nearby.