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Does anyone here use a UPS connected to their printer? Can you recommend a good one if you do? Yes, it finally happened to me. Halfway through a 7 hr. print job, the lights flickered upstairs and I heard a "beep beep" sound from the basement The job had died and the hot end just sat there on top of the piece. I'm just thankful I was home when it happened. Hence my question. Has anyone had a similar experience and do you think using a UPS would help?

Welcoming all thoughts and comments. Yeah, you can razz me too...I earned it....

I'm using an Eaton UPS for two 3d printers and 2 computers.
http://powerquality.eaton.com/products- ... FD49C786A5
This is an Australian one, so pick a brand that works for where you are...

I have had fails on loooong prints before the UPS, you can recover them as long as your computer didn't also shut off (I run from a laptop so that's not an issue)

There's no razzing involved with this, it happens to anyone who runs a print long enough

Yes, get a UPS and I'd suggest as big of a one as you can since you're essentially running two computers (power supplies) from it and you want as much as uptime as possible

I didn't realize that I could resume the print. The laptop never went off, the power "flicker" just stopped the print process. I didn't see a button that said "resume" so I trashed the entire piece and started over. How DOES one resume a print that stalled but never lost connection with the PC? I'm using Repetier 0.95F...

Thanks for the link on the UPS...I'll scope out what's available for this part of the world. Appreciate the response!!

Thanks!

McSlappy wrote:I'm using an Eaton UPS for two 3d printers and 2 computers.
http://powerquality.eaton.com/products- ... FD49C786A5
This is an Australian one, so pick a brand that works for where you are...

I have had fails on loooong prints before the UPS, you can recover them as long as your computer didn't also shut off (I run from a laptop so that's not an issue)

There's no razzing involved with this, it happens to anyone who runs a print long enough

Yes, get a UPS and I'd suggest as big of a one as you can since you're essentially running two computers (power supplies) from it and you want as much as uptime as possible

Those units SEEM to only protect against surges (and perhaps dips).
I might be interested in something that would carry through a 2 or 3 hour black-out.
Worst case for me is probably 1/2 way through a 3 or 4 hour print, the chance of the timing hitting that is slim though...
I get a total power outage once every couple of years, it rarely lasts more than an hour, but a bit of extra "reassurance quotient" would be nice to have.

I guess the onyx is the BIG POWER SUCKER, though the motors probably take a fair bit too ?

I did consider doing a video on how to resume, but for now here's my technique.

two methods:
1. 3d printer shut off due but computer remained on (if you run from a laptop this will be your scenario)
- You should still have the gcode that was running at the time of failure - the log should show you where the error happened. Make note of the line of code that was trying to run when it failed.
- Turn 3d printer back on, get all temps up.
- Save out the gcode from repetier to a text file that you can edit.
- Open the gcode file and using the chunk of code saved from earlier, do a search and find it.
- One you find the code delete all of the code prior to this chunk, but leave the necessary header code (as long as it doesn't include anything that tells it to drop to z=0 or z=15 or something like this)
- Save the gcode out as a new file
- Open the gcode in Repetier
- Press print and if all goes well it should resume with a slight overlap of the part it failed on leaving only a minor blemish and continuing flawlessly.

2. 3d printer and computer both shut off due to power failure. You will need to have an identical gcode file to what you printed (either reslice it or even better have the gcode you printed from already saved) This is less accurate
- Using the most accurate method you can, measure the height of the print
- Approximate as best you can the layer height the print was currently on (using the height as well as your set layer height to calculate it)
- Once you work out what layer height you were on go to http://gcode.ws/ and upload your gcode
- Scroll to the layer that the print failed from, then look at the gcode, it will have everything from that layer onward highlighted.
- Copy that chunk of code, and make a new gcode file from that OR take note of that layer location and edit your original gcode file (make sure you remember the necessary headers)
- Save the new code
- Load it back into repetier (or whatever you're using)
- Print and pray that it all goes well with as little blemishes as possible.

You can cancel either of these methods pretty quickly and try again if it doesn't look right

Source: Lots of looooong failed prints

Thanks for writing all that up! Many users can be helped by this!

Indeed thank you! I will remember those methods if that ever happens again!

I really should put that all in a video

McSlappy wrote:I really should put that all in a video

I have a special folder for your videos and I would appreciate some more!

I'm using an APC backup power supply with a beefier battery than the stock one that can keep my printer running as long as the power stays out. (I reckon it could run for about 4 hours on my conservative estimate, but I haven't run any actual tests other than pulling the plug on the UPS while the printer remained running.

APC Back-UPS® XS 1500VA 10-Outlet Power-Saving UPS

With my laptop running on it's internal battery, and the printer on the back up under full load, I can get about two hours run time with this backup.

Eaglezsoar wrote: I have a special folder for your videos and I would appreciate some more!

Awww thanks! I'll make some more!!