Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hello, I do not have the kit yet but have started ordering my tools and supplies...

So far I have placed my Amazon order. All items fell under prime free shipping. This order was convenient for me. I realize some of the items could be had for less elsewhere.

1. Bosch TDP123103 1-Inch P1,P2,P3 TiN Screw Bit, 3 Pack $6.21
2. Black & Decker BDCS40G 4-Volt Max Gyro Screwdriver $27.99
3. Henkel Corp Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 $6.75
4. Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV $6.59
5. 1 Mil Kapton Tape (Polyimide) - 1/2" X 36 Yds $8.95
6. 6 Inch LCD Digital Caliper with Extra Battery and Case $11.74
7. Denali 14-Piece Spring Clamp Assortment $14.79
8. Elmer's Disappearing Purple School Glue Sticks, 0.21 oz Each, 2 Sticks $0.97

More ordering tomorrow (connectors, crimped, etc)
Ken.

That clamp set looks nice, I got excited and just went down the list ordering stuff without doing much shopping around...

I ordered one clamp

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005 ... UTF8&psc=1



If I ever need more I might get that set, the reviews look good.

Ordered the connectors (plus extras for practice and other projects) and a nice crimper. I was going to try to get the stuff from digikey since it is a lot cheaper but the choices for the terminals for the housings was confusing me. I just went ahead with ordering from hansens.

1x4 .1in Plastic Latching Polarized Female Housings (x10)
Item # HH-PT1IN_LP_FH_1x4 (x10)
$2.90

1x4 .1in Plastic Latching Polarized Male Housings (x10)
Item # HH-PT1IN_LP_MH_1x4 (x10)
$6.02

Female Gold Terminals for .100" LP Female Housings (BULK/LOOSE packaging) (x30)
Item # HH-PT1IN_LP_FT (x30)
$3.60 x 2

Male Gold Terminals for .100" LP Male Housings (BULK/LOOSE packaging) (x30)
Item # HH-PT1IN_LP_MT (x30)
$3.60 x 2

Deluxe Crimping Tool (x1)
Item # HH-CRIMP_DX (x1)
$39.95

Female JST/BEC Connector Housings (x10)
Item # HH-JSTBEC_FH (x10)
$2.49

Female JST/BEC Connector Gold Terminals (x20)
Item # HH-JSTBEC_FT (x20)
$3.49

Male JST/BEC Connector Housings (x10)
Item # HH-JSTBEC_MH (x10)
$2.49

Male JST/BEC Connector Gold Terminals (x20)
Item # HH-JSTBEC_MT (x20)
$3.49

Item total:$75.23
Plus shipping and tax.

The cheap digital caliper sucks!!! Anybody have any suggestions? I new it was cheap but at least expected it to work.

It was "6 Inch LCD Digital Caliper with Extra Battery and Case $11.74" from Amazon and looks like the same one Harbor freight sells. I'll be returning it.

I close the caliper. Hit Zero and it does zero. Then if I (either slowly or quickly) open the caliper and close it again it does not go back to zero (most of the time). For example I opened it to 100mm and closed it; now it says 5mm and needs zeroed again. If I open and close it several times the error changes (usually increases every time). I've had it show up to 65mm when I returned it to zero and even -2mm once.

This is not reliable/repeateable and cannot be trusted. (Unless I am doing something wrong). Any thoughts?

edge922 wrote:The cheap digital caliper sucks!!! Anybody have any suggestions? I new it was cheap but at least expected it to work.

It was "6 Inch LCD Digital Caliper with Extra Battery and Case $11.74" from Amazon and looks like the same one Harbor freight sells. I'll be returning it.

I close the caliper. Hit Zero and it does zero. Then if I (either slowly or quickly) open the caliper and close it again it does not go back to zero (most of the time). For example I opened it to 100mm and closed it; now it says 5mm and needs zeroed again. If I open and close it several times the error changes (usually increases every time). I've had it show up to 65mm when I returned it to zero and even -2mm once.

This is not reliable/repeateable and cannot be trusted. (Unless I am doing something wrong). Any thoughts?

You said it best, that thing can't be trusted. The one I bought from Harbor Freight is more repeatable then that one.

Same here. I ignore the last digit on my H-F calipers, but they're definitely not that inconsistent.

I had actually bought the same one when I first got my Max back in October 2013, I have just become a custom to zeroing it out before each measure, as long as I zero it out it is pretty accurate so because of that and the fact that I'm a cheap bastard I continue to use it. Lol

AndThenSome09 wrote:I had actually bought the same one when I first got my Max back in October 2013, I have just become a custom to zeroing it out before each measure, as long as I zero it out it is pretty accurate so because of that and the fact that I'm a cheap bastard I continue to use it. Lol

Can we nickname you CB?

Picked up my printer locally at SeeMeCNC today. Along with some extra filament. I hope to get to work on it a little each night this week and finish this weekend some time.

I'll at least get through checking through the BOM tonight.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

AndThenSome09 wrote:I had actually bought the same one when I first got my Max back in October 2013, I have just become a custom to zeroing it out before each measure, as long as I zero it out it is pretty accurate so because of that and the fact that I'm a cheap bastard I continue to use it. Lol

Can we nickname you CB?

Sure, I've always wanted a nickname! Lol!

I was only able to work on it for about an hour last night. I opened the package, cleaned out all the packing material, and verified all the main parts, boxes, and part bags were in there.

Tonight I plan to go through all the parts bags and the small hardware into labeled bins.

Here is the box the printer came in as well as the spool of PLA and spool of ABS I ordered. They had a good sale during MRRF2014
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/pm4h3eden/DSCN1524.jpg[/img]

Yea for packing peanuts everywhere!
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/4nyb5bdjz/DSCN1525.jpg[/img]

The Lasercut sheets and the 3 slotted rails were shrink wrapped together.
It came with two "full" sized sheets and 2 sheets that are about 2/3rds as wide.
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/bagdkr5un/DSCN1528.jpg[/img]

This is the 450W power supply that is included.
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/5ssdap00v/DSCN1529.jpg[/img]
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/3ke6tcswv/DSCN1531.jpg[/img]

The acrylic parts were all in a small box within the main box.
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/5hawxxjkv/DSCN1534.jpg[/img]

There was a decal loose in the main box. I could be easy to miss.
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/jc97gedzz/DSCN1535.jpg[/img]

More pics from last night.

Here are the contents of the main hardware box. (after clearing out more peanuts)
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/3tbrja5pb/DSCN1540.jpg[/img]

Hardware Pack 1
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/4hkm284f3/DSCN1542.jpg[/img]
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/idsue40nz/DSCN1543.jpg[/img]

Hardware Pack 2
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/j603r1u8v/DSCN1545.jpg[/img]


Hardware Pack 3
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/7fhkvxc2n/DSCN1547.jpg[/img]
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/v95fem5b3/DSCN1548.jpg[/img]

Hardware Pack 4
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/64ef175un/DSCN1549.jpg[/img]

edge922 wrote:There was a decal loose in the main box. I could be easy to miss.
[img]http://s25.postimg.org/jc97gedzz/DSCN1535.jpg[/img]

Ah! I was cleaning up last night to make room for a table and almost threw stuff away. I figured it would be a smart idea to wait until I was done to throw anything away. While a decal isn't exactly an important piece of hardware... I'm glad I made that decision.

Lots and lots of parts. Very easy to misplace or loose something buried in all the packing foam.
Glad you rescued it!

I just found the digikey numbers for the .100 connectors, I am still looking for the JST part numbers.



4pin housings
WM2902-ND female housing
WM2535-ND male housing
Pins on a strip - probably not what you want
WM2563CT-ND male pin - again, a cut strip
WM9139CT-ND female pin - I think this is a cut portion of a big strip
Bulk pins
WM4593-ND female pins, bulk (loose) packing
WM2516-ND male pins, bulk

Also: 2 pin connectors at .100 instead of the JST ones, because I couldn't find the JST ones and I have the actual right molex crimper [at work] for this pin family. It is $253.
WM2900-ND female 2pin housing
WM2533-ND male 2-pin housing

edge922 wrote:Ordered the connectors (plus extras for practice and other projects) and a nice crimper. I was going to try to get the stuff from digikey since it is a lot cheaper but the choices for the terminals for the housings was confusing me. I just went ahead with ordering from hansens.

1x4 .1in Plastic Latching Polarized Female Housings (x10)
Item # HH-PT1IN_LP_FH_1x4 (x10)
$2.90

1x4 .1in Plastic Latching Polarized Male Housings (x10)
Item # HH-PT1IN_LP_MH_1x4 (x10)
$6.02

Female Gold Terminals for .100" LP Female Housings (BULK/LOOSE packaging) (x30)
Item # HH-PT1IN_LP_FT (x30)
$3.60 x 2

Male Gold Terminals for .100" LP Male Housings (BULK/LOOSE packaging) (x30)
Item # HH-PT1IN_LP_MT (x30)
$3.60 x 2

Deluxe Crimping Tool (x1)
Item # HH-CRIMP_DX (x1)
$39.95

Female JST/BEC Connector Housings (x10)
Item # HH-JSTBEC_FH (x10)
$2.49

Female JST/BEC Connector Gold Terminals (x20)
Item # HH-JSTBEC_FT (x20)
$3.49

Male JST/BEC Connector Housings (x10)
Item # HH-JSTBEC_MH (x10)
$2.49

Male JST/BEC Connector Gold Terminals (x20)
Item # HH-JSTBEC_MT (x20)
$3.49

Item total:$75.23
Plus shipping and tax.

Tonkabot,

Thanks for looking into it. It would definitely cost less to get it from Digikey.

However, the part numbers for the pins you provided are for 24-30 gauge wire. Looks like the hot end resistors will be using 18 awg (which makes sense). I couldn't find part numbers for pins for this housing that are for 18 awg could you?

Looking at the datasheet for the housings it appears that the maximum wire size would be 22 awg. So I think for the hot end these housing that Gene recomends in the guide may not actually be appropriate. We either need to live with it or come up with something similar but designed for the heavier wire.

Also, there are no detailed specs or datasheets available on Hansen to tell if those are the same connector or if they actually could support 18 awg wire.

18ga IS a bit much for the Hansen connectors I used, but I've used them in three machines and they work very well.

g.

edge922 wrote:Tonkabot,

Thanks for looking into it. It would definitely cost less to get it from Digikey.

However, the part numbers for the pins you provided are for 24-30 gauge wire. Looks like the hot end resistors will be using 18 awg (which makes sense). I couldn't find part numbers for pins for this housing that are for 18 awg could you?

Looking at the datasheet for the housings it appears that the maximum wire size would be 22 awg. So I think for the hot end these housing that Gene recomends in the guide may not actually be appropriate. We either need to live with it or come up with something similar but designed for the heavier wire.

Also, there are no detailed specs or datasheets available on Hansen to tell if those are the same connector or if they actually could support 18 awg wire.

There is another pin for (I think) 22-24 gauge wire, but you are correct, the connector isn't really designed for 18 gauge.

If the stepper isn't pushing the current rating of the connector, it shouldn't be a problem to use, even if you have to cut a few strands off to get the crimp pin on there nicely.

According to the molex spec, 26 ga pins are good for 1.8A, 24 ga for 3.0A and 22 ga for 3.0A.
So I think just trimming a couple strands so it fits in the crimp pin are acceptable.

Actually isn't he recommending using this connector for the hot end (the resistors and the thermistor). If so that could be a lot more amps than this is rated for.

If I recall the heating resistors are 5.8 ohms each. In parallel that means 3.4ohms.

12 Volts / 3.4 ohms = 3.5 Amps!

If I am correct we need to use a bigger connector for sure.

edge922 wrote:Actually isn't he recommending using this connector for the hot end (the resistors and the thermistor). If so that could be a lot more amps than this is rated for.

If I recall the heating resistors are 5.8 ohms each. In parallel that means 3.4ohms.

12 Volts / 3.4 ohms = 3.5 Amps!

If I am correct we need to use a bigger connector for sure.

Actually in appendix A he does show using these connectors with the hot end.

The longest print I've done on Casper was 24 hours and there's been no problems at all. These are the same connectors used on the LulzBot TAZ hot end assemblies (that's where I got the idea) and they have no issue either. A bigger connector is not necessary, for sure.

g.

geneb wrote:The longest print I've done on Casper was 24 hours and there's been no problems at all. These are the same connectors used on the LulzBot TAZ hot end assemblies (that's where I got the idea) and they have no issue either. A bigger connector is not necessary, for sure.

g.

The wires on the Orion going to the hotend are really small and must be around 20 gauge and they work great for heating the hotend.

I understand it is obviously working for you guys and that the hotend won't be running at full current all the time. I am not saying everyone with those connectors needs to remove/replace them.

I am saying that they are definitely undersized for the potential current that would be going through them according to the specs of the connectors. There are alternatives that are inexpensive and rated to handle the current.

I am going to find something better suited for the intended use and have more confidence that the wiring and connectors would not be causing a bottleneck in my hotend efficiency or performance.

This will also give me confidence in the future since I may end up experimenting with higher than 12 volts (which means even more current).

edge922 wrote:I understand it is obviously working for you guys and that the hotend won't be running at full current all the time. I am not saying everyone with those connectors needs to remove/replace them.

I am saying that they are definitely undersized for the potential current that would be going through them according to the specs of the connectors. There are alternatives that are inexpensive and rated to handle the current.

I am going to find something better suited for the intended use and have more confidence that the wiring and connectors would not be causing a bottleneck in my hotend efficiency or performance.

This will also give me confidence in the future since I may end up experimenting with higher than 12 volts (which means even more current).

The Deans connector series would work well.

edge922 wrote:I understand it is obviously working for you guys and that the hotend won't be running at full current all the time. I am not saying everyone with those connectors needs to remove/replace them.

I am saying that they are definitely undersized for the potential current that would be going through them according to the specs of the connectors. There are alternatives that are inexpensive and rated to handle the current.

I am going to find something better suited for the intended use and have more confidence that the wiring and connectors would not be causing a bottleneck in my hotend efficiency or performance.

This will also give me confidence in the future since I may end up experimenting with higher than 12 volts (which means even more current).

Ah, Actually if you go to a higher voltage, you get LESS current -- assuming the power output remains the same. That's why electrical distribution is high voltage, it has smaller wires and current.