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Is there a guide for changing filament or hot end?
Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:26 pm
by Lasivian
Granted it would be short. Just checking ahead before I mess soemthing up. Only ever dealt with a non-bowden extruder and a hot-end that was not built to be changed easily.
Thanks!
Re: Is there a guide for changing filament or hot end?
Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:34 pm
by Eaglezsoar
Lasivian wrote:Granted it would be short. Just checking ahead before I mess soemthing up. Only ever dealt with a non-bowden extruder and a hot-end that was not built to be changed easily.
Thanks!
There is a small chapter in the Orion Manual on how to change filaments.
Changing hotends is really not covered but in a way it is. Once you get the old one out you can use the documentation for the Rostock Max on how to reinstall a hotend.
The changes to Z height is also covered in the documentation. After you change hotends the Z height will have to be reset for the new hotend.
Re: Is there a guide for changing filament or hot end?
Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:50 pm
by Lasivian
Oh, actually I mean changing the nozzle.
I am guessing it just gets unscrewed once the filament is removed. Not sure if the Z needs to be recalibrated.
Thanks
Re: Is there a guide for changing filament or hot end?
Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 9:06 pm
by Eaglezsoar
Lasivian wrote:Oh, actually I mean changing the nozzle.
I am guessing it just gets unscrewed once the filament is removed. Not sure if the Z needs to be recalibrated.
Thanks
The nozzle would carefully be removed while the hotend is at temperature for the filament you removed, this
has to be done carefully because you could be burned. Put a wrench of some sorts on the piece holding the
nozzle then using another wrench or socket you remove the nozzle. The reason the hotend has to be hot is
because there is residual filament inside the nozzle and perhaps in the nozzle threads. If it is not heated you
probably won't be able to move the nozzle. Hope this helps. And I would recalibrate the Z-height because it
will change slightly, you would never get the new nozzle or even the old one the exact number of threads as
the old one was besides it only takes a short while to calibrate the Z-height and I believe it is good a good practice to
do a z-height calibration any time you do anything that could change it.