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house wrote:Well here's my problem. The left side is always higher it's a good line. But the right will almost look clear. I've used a level to make sure the machine is level. Reset the z height a few times the best I can get is a good line on the right and then it lifts off on the left. The printer is a orion I'm not sure on the firmware. I also noticed that the screw on top of the right cheapskate is all the way down. The other two are half way up.

PartDaddy wrote:Hi TFMike,

First, your issues are not machine calibration issues. All of that is done here at the plant. Next, the shipping companies are rough on everything. Leveling adjustment is performed by adjusting the three carriage screws. Adjusting the three leveling screws changes the bed height (z height) when all three screws are adjusted the same amount up and down. For a non-level Z (knocked our during shipping), adjust the limit screw next to the tower(s) where the first layer filament is too close or too high off the bed. We set the z and tram in the X and Y axis perfect. Adjusting the three leveling screws might be needed when you receive the machine because they are usually handled rough by the shipping companies.

Bent screw anomaly:
Baffles me. This had to happen during shipping somehow. The glass filled nylon is not capable of causing this during assembly. I asked questions out in production and screwed another flat head into a production part. We can mail a replacement, just email support.

The Glue Stick:
Getting off to a good start is important. Wash your glass build plate clean in your kitchen sink using some dish soap. A few drops will do. Use warm water to rinse thoroughly. Dry the glass build plate using clean paper towels, do not touch it with your bare fingers. The oils from your skin will cause your parts to come loose. Holding by the very edge of the plate, clip it back on your heated bed. Apply a single layer of glue stick to the COLD GLASS SURFACE. One thin layer. Wait about 60 seconds, and apply a second layer 90 degrees (make a two layer cross hatch pattern). Do not cake-on the glue stick. A thinner layer works best.

Heat the bed:
The heated bed for ABS should be 90C to 100C. This helps prevent warping. If you have a PART cooling fan or blower (different from your hot end cooling fan on all machines), make sure cooling is turned OFF for ABS prints.

Your Sample Part:
I understand you've got some help from us. I heard that your first layer looks good and even on the build surface. So it sounds like your bed is level.
Next, your CAD file might have problems. Also, your extruder temp might be low. Look up http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... it=owl+2.4 ; with the exception that it's PLA, make your filament temp 225. You might copy these Slic3r settings and try again. I've had bad STL files step shifted like your photo before. After a cloud.netfabb dotcom fix, the file sliced good. Also, don't copy your file to the SD card over the USB cable. Don't even plug your machine into the USB cable. Copy your .gcode file directly to the SD card, then plug back into the printer and print from the SD card.

Try slicing something else:
Does your STL model import into Repetier without errors? Slicing another part file might help.

Steve