So, don't be me....
Tried to change my nozzle and ended up wrecking my E3D. First I stripped the nozzle which didn't want to budge and then I snapped the heat break into two.
*sigh*
For future reference, what's the easiest way to change nozzles on the E3D?
Do they usually get this stuck?
Broke my E3D...
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Eaglezsoar
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Re: Broke my E3D...
You are not the first to break the heat break on the E3D, they are fragile and I try to keep an extra around.
Before attempting to change nozzles I would bring the temperature up to 230c to make sure that any filament that could be around the threads is melted.
Then carefully without being burnt, loosen the nozzle while holding the body with an adjustable slide wrench. (small crescent wrench)
The nozzle should move if it is hot. The idea is not to put any side forces to the heat break. Obviously if the E3D hasn't been used then heating it should not be necessary.
The parts are now sold in the USA at this link: http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ ... heat-break
Before attempting to change nozzles I would bring the temperature up to 230c to make sure that any filament that could be around the threads is melted.
Then carefully without being burnt, loosen the nozzle while holding the body with an adjustable slide wrench. (small crescent wrench)
The nozzle should move if it is hot. The idea is not to put any side forces to the heat break. Obviously if the E3D hasn't been used then heating it should not be necessary.
The parts are now sold in the USA at this link: http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ ... heat-break
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Generic Default
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Re: Broke my E3D...
Just a tip to avoid this;
Put the heat break in backwards so that the threaded part of the heat break is the only thing showing in the air gap between the big aluminum heat sink and the heater block. This way any forces on the heat break (switching nozzles or crashing into the bed) will be taken by the thicker threaded part of the heat break, while the thin part is up inside the heat sink.
I wasn't expecting it to work when I switched it, but the extruder still works fine and the heat sink doesn't feel any hotter from the larger cross sectional area of the threaded stainless steel heat break. You will lose a few mm of Z height though. I think it's worth it for an extruder that isn't so fragile.
I also recommend chamfering both holes in the heat break if you switch it, otherwise it might be hard to stuff your filament down into the nozzle before you start printing. I haven't done this yet so I have to chamfer the end of my filament before I put it in.
Put the heat break in backwards so that the threaded part of the heat break is the only thing showing in the air gap between the big aluminum heat sink and the heater block. This way any forces on the heat break (switching nozzles or crashing into the bed) will be taken by the thicker threaded part of the heat break, while the thin part is up inside the heat sink.
I wasn't expecting it to work when I switched it, but the extruder still works fine and the heat sink doesn't feel any hotter from the larger cross sectional area of the threaded stainless steel heat break. You will lose a few mm of Z height though. I think it's worth it for an extruder that isn't so fragile.
I also recommend chamfering both holes in the heat break if you switch it, otherwise it might be hard to stuff your filament down into the nozzle before you start printing. I haven't done this yet so I have to chamfer the end of my filament before I put it in.
Check out the Tri hotend!
Re: Broke my E3D...
from needle node pliers arranged to apply tension to belt.
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