Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

hi all
anyone know how to print with Tglass ?
i readt that the hot end temp need to be around 212 C
but what about the bed ?
and any good advise beside that to print with it ?
Thanks

I'll add some more questions:
Does the Elmer's glue bed prep work for it?
Part fan needed?

i got tglase to stick well with hairspray/gluestick @ 55c

the problem is they say 212c for best performance but will that be exactly what your printer does? probably not.. it still requires some trial and error but is a good starting point.

Just because you can print a vase with t-glase doesnt mean the same settings will work with printing an object with retracts and fill. Lots of trial and error (i still dont have it perfect)

bubbasnow wrote:i got tglase to stick well with hairspray/gluestick @ 55c

the problem is they say 212c for best performance but will that be exactly what your printer does? probably not.. it still requires some trial and error but is a good starting point.

Just because you can print a vase with t-glase doesnt mean the same settings will work with printing an object with retracts and fill. Lots of trial and error (i still dont have it perfect)

Does it require a layer cooling fan like PLA does?

i reduce speed to like 15mm/s so i do not use one

bubbasnow wrote:i reduce speed to like 15mm/s so i do not use one

With the high cost of Tglase I am understanding why you print slow and carefully. I didn't think a layer fan would be necessary but I needed to verify that. Thanks.

I have burned through 3 spools of the stuff at this point and really love it. Gears from this material are stronger than anything and have really low friction/wear.

I found I have to print the stuff substantially hotter than anything anyone else is but it could simply be an irregularity with my thermistor placement on the hotend I am currently using.

One thing to note is that it does seem to take just a little longer to fully heat to liquid state on the way out of the nozzle, requiring as you guys have noted a small slowdown in your printing speed or an increase in the hotend temp to compensate.

Small parts require a cooling fan very similar to PLA, I have great success getting it to stick to glass with a good coating of hairspray, or even better (perhaps too much) UHU glue.

Here are some pics.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/IiJwGiA.jpg?1[/img]

holy moly!

nice print

Wow that so cool. Can you say how much time did it take and what are the parameters that you put on the slice program?

That is one fine looking print especially when backlit lite it is. Great job.

soooooo, of course now im trying to print in tglase and it looks like im having jamming issues w/e3d. its getting stuck and i cannot push it through the cooling zone. it seems like the teeth marks from my ezstruder are causing issues because i take a fresh piece off the roll and it passes out the nozzle.

bubbasnow wrote:soooooo, of course now im trying to print in tglase and it looks like im having jamming issues w/e3d. its getting stuck and i cannot push it through the cooling zone. it seems like the teeth marks from my ezstruder are causing issues because i take a fresh piece off the roll and it passes out the nozzle.

Do you think the teeth are getting caught on the bowden adapter at the top of the hotend?

Eaglezsoar wrote:

bubbasnow wrote:soooooo, of course now im trying to print in tglase and it looks like im having jamming issues w/e3d. its getting stuck and i cannot push it through the cooling zone. it seems like the teeth marks from my ezstruder are causing issues because i take a fresh piece off the roll and it passes out the nozzle.

Do you think the teeth are getting caught on the bowden adapter at the top of the hotend?

i thought about that, and pulled both ends open, and pushed filament through with little effort. I cut a 6 inch piece off fresh from the roll (no teeth marks) and pressed it into an at temperature hotend. the filament came out as it should. but then i took 6 inch of filament that went through the ezstruder and it wont fit into the cooling zone to even get a chance to melt (because of the teeth marks??!). It sounds obvious that it has to be an issue of pressure at the struder between the bearing and teeth...but i don't think there is an adjustment to make it squeeze less.

alright so.. i pulled more off the roll and it seems that its very inconsistent in its diameter even before it goes through the ezstruder. i measured some parts as wide as 1.86. This roll has been sitting here for a while, does t-glase take on water and expand a little bit?

bubbasnow wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:

bubbasnow wrote:soooooo, of course now im trying to print in tglase and it looks like im having jamming issues w/e3d. its getting stuck and i cannot push it through the cooling zone. it seems like the teeth marks from my ezstruder are causing issues because i take a fresh piece off the roll and it passes out the nozzle.

Do you think the teeth are getting caught on the bowden adapter at the top of the hotend?

i thought about that, and pulled both ends open, and pushed filament through with little effort. I cut a 6 inch piece off fresh from the roll (no teeth marks) and pressed it into an at temperature hotend. the filament came out as it should. but then i took 6 inch of filament that went through the ezstruder and it wont fit into the cooling zone to even get a chance to melt (because of the teeth marks??!). It sounds obvious that it has to be an issue of pressure at the struder between the bearing and teeth...but i don't think there is an adjustment to make it squeeze less.

No, there is no adjustment but I have to wonder why it is just the Tglase. Have you measured the outside diameter of the Tglase at various points? It sounds as though it may be
larger than it should be.

bubbasnow wrote:alright so.. i pulled more off the roll and it seems that its very inconsistent in its diameter even before it goes through the ezstruder. i measured some parts as wide as 1.86. This roll has been sitting here for a while, does t-glase take on water and expand a little bit?

beat ya to it!

I am printing some of that green t-glase right now and its going great. must have been something with that roll

I have noticed that if you try to feed the stuff through the hotend too quickly it will sorta bunch up and cause the t-glaze to thicken due to the bunch at the extruder end, by the time it get to the hotend it no long can fit through the opening due to it's thickening.

Solution for me was to print slower and substantially hotter than most people report using. Much hotter. Like *249c.

* Please DO NOT attempt to print at this temperature with anything other than an all metal hotend. Or a VERY heavily fan cooled peek type hotend. You WILL have a melt down on your hotend.

bubbasnow wrote:
beat ya to it!

I am printing some of that green t-glase right now and its going great. must have been something with that roll

On the MBI forums there were several reports of a bad batch of Tglase that had inconsistent, large diameters causing the same problems you have. I would ask for an exchange.

bubbasnow wrote:

bubbasnow wrote:alright so.. i pulled more off the roll and it seems that its very inconsistent in its diameter even before it goes through the ezstruder. i measured some parts as wide as 1.86. This roll has been sitting here for a while, does t-glase take on water and expand a little bit?

beat ya to it!

I am printing some of that green t-glase right now and its going great. must have been something with that roll

Yeah, you did beat me to it. I don't know how I missed your comment just a few above mine. But I'll be first next time!

ok. so i did my first T glass print.... not perfect but close to it....

It looks like its made out of silver. Very nice!

it's the flash.... it's 22:10 here now...

Orenfor wrote:it's the flash.... it's 22:10 here now...

Flash or not it still looks damn nice.