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This was an enlarged tower from the "Essential Calibration Kit" on Thingiverse which i cut up to inspect for quality validation. It was printed in ABS (230e/115b) with the default (slic3r not manual) settings for speed only and honeycomb infill verse rectilinear. Any ideas, I would hate to think that I have to always print external perimeters at less than 30mm/s rather than the 60mm/s this was printed on.

BTW this was done on my Mac rather than my PC. Also it may be a coincidence but the perimeter delamination problem did not start, or were not noticed until I moved to my MAC. My MAC is MUCH faster than my PC and slicing that takes 20 mins on my old IBM laptop takes 45 sec on the MAC since it has 4 cores.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Could some of you please post your perimeter extrusion settings.... 30,40,....80mm/s

This may help me realize why I am having these issues.

You may simply not be able to run this technology at fast perimeter settings since it takes too long for the hotend to get back to its spot.

Your not extruding enough plastic.
Have you printed a single wall test print and verified the wall width?

Yes and it turned out great..... I am printing a test now, same part with perimeters at 30mm/s (80% for external) and another at 60mm/sec and 60mm/sec external. I am trying to rule out the change over to my MAC in the event the slicer or host is not 100% for a MAC. It should not matter but after many years of owning a MAC, I am used to software acting strange on it if the software was designed for a PC.

OK I need to rephrase that, the single wall test looks good, but the wall is about 1.1mm thick. I say "about" because it varies as high as 1.2mm when I turned the feedrate multiplier up to 175% because I wanted to see if the shape would hold. I also just finished the first tower at the slower settings, the perimeters are much more intact with the infill, but the top still looks horrible as it seems the plastic melts into the honeycomb infill.

Please excuse the deformed shape of the tower, it was really stuck to the tape on the bed and I did not wait long enough to remove it. Is 125C too high of a bed temp?

Ok I am redoing my 0.5mm test wall. I have the default extrusion set to 0.55mm and am getting 0.6 to 0.58 with a multiplier of 1. I will adjust it to try to get closer to 0.55, but I am using an old dial and cheap (Chinese) set of calipers so anything between 0.54 and 0.56 will have to do. I also had to disable retraction as suggested in the sticky, should it stay disabled for all prints?

Not bad.... Not bad at all....
I will try to reprint another shape "Rostock LED Ring" that was kicking my but at see how it goes.......

BTW I am sorry all these images are coming out upside down for PC users, they look fine on the MAC butt it seems to use the orientation info from the iPhone while the PC does not.

While not perfect, it is much better. The only difference between these to was actually calibrating the extruder. The new print is much better but still has a fill issue in one of the light pods. The only issue I have with the printer is I do not know what it can do yet. So after a print unless it is a complete failure, I am left to wonder "Is this the best it can do or am I making mistakes".

Ok so I did another albeit shorter version of the calibration tower from the first post. As you can see I no longer have any issues with perimeter adhesion or layer consistency, however I still have a major problem when it comes to crossing over the honeycomb infill. Thoughts???

Side View, Top View, Cut Away View

Your bed temp may be to high, I've seen people using 80-100.

Here's how I see it with my crazy wizard eyes @_@.

The bed's heat is venting through the honeycomb just fine, then you cover the honeycomb and you have an air pocket that continues to warm up and keeps the ABS from cooling quick enough and stay pliable.

Just a thought though.