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I need to raise my Hot-End temp. It is off by about 25 degrees C. On the LCD it reads 250 but if I put a temperature probe on the PEEK it reads 223 to 225 degrees C. How do I increase the MAX settings for the Hot End?

Thanks in advance.

Namaste.

You need to measure the temp next to the brass nozzle. Preferably the inside of the nozzle to get the melt zone temperature. If the PEEK is at 225 you are risking melting it and destroying the PEEK.

Seriously nice kite MorbidSlowBurn. Did you build it?

@mhackney- I actually commissioned it to be built for me, but I normally build and design my own. It is my graphics on a Peter Lynn Ray. An article I wrote on it is located here on Gomberg kites. By the way it is 32' across and 80' long. One reason for the 3D printer is for custom kite fittings

Very cool, thanks

MorbidSlowBurn wrote:You need to measure the temp next to the brass nozzle. Preferably the inside of the nozzle to get the melt zone temperature. If the PEEK is at 225 you are risking melting it and destroying the PEEK.

I see. So Max on these is around 253 Degrees Celsius. Cause if you set it at 255 Degress C it jumps to 260 occasionally and shuts off automatically. I am not going to run it over 260 Degrees C, just want a way to disable that temporarily.

The max temp is set in the firmware. Browse through configuration.h and you'll find it.

elqisqeyano wrote:

MorbidSlowBurn wrote:You need to measure the temp next to the brass nozzle. Preferably the inside of the nozzle to get the melt zone temperature. If the PEEK is at 225 you are risking melting it and destroying the PEEK.

I see. So Max on these is around 253 Degrees Celsius. Cause if you set it at 255 Degress C it jumps to 260 occasionally and shuts off automatically. I am not going to run it over 260 Degrees C, just want a way to disable that temporarily.

You can set the max in the firmware to anything you want, but at around 250 you start damaging the PTFE liner and at much more than that you'll start to soften the PEEK thermal barrier.
I would strongly recommend printing under 245.

mhackney wrote:The max temp is set in the firmware. Browse through configuration.h and you'll find it.

I went in there and increased it to 275 degrees Celsius so it can give me a true 245 degrees without shutting off on me cause it thinks it's 260 degrees C. But when I go into the firmware in the LCD smart controller, so I can print from SD, it is still at 260 Max, The highest I can set it is 253 degrees C, and that gives me a true 240 degrees C. I need true 245 to true 250 degrees Celsius. Is do I have to change the E temp Max for the Smart LCD too?

Polygonhell wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote:

MorbidSlowBurn wrote:You need to measure the temp next to the brass nozzle. Preferably the inside of the nozzle to get the melt zone temperature. If the PEEK is at 225 you are risking melting it and destroying the PEEK.

I see. So Max on these is around 253 Degrees Celsius. Cause if you set it at 255 Degress C it jumps to 260 occasionally and shuts off automatically. I am not going to run it over 260 Degrees C, just want a way to disable that temporarily.

You can set the max in the firmware to anything you want, but at around 250 you start damaging the PTFE liner and at much more than that you'll start to soften the PEEK thermal barrier.
I would strongly recommend printing under 245.

I'm trying to print at 245. But I have to set the temp to 255 to get true 245, but when I do that, sometimes it trips off cause while printing it goes over 260 on the reading so it shuts off. I am going to stay below 250, but in order to do that I have to increase the Max to like 270 so it doesn't shut off. I tried to do that from the firmware (Audino) but when I go into the LCD Smart controller it has the Max still at 260. Do I need to change that value for the LCD Controller as well?

If so, how do I go about changing the E Max Temp value on the LCD Smart controller?

I could be wrong but you may also be hitting the upper end of what the thermistor can read too. So it may be hotter then the internal readings show. Be super careful as everyone says and be sure to have a great fan cooling the hotend but diverted from your part for preventing the breeze from warping things.

I melted my first hotend into oblivion around 245, just FYI.

Flateric wrote:I could be wrong but you may also be hitting the upper end of what the thermistor can read too. So it may be hotter then the internal readings show. Be super careful as everyone says and be sure to have a great fan cooling the hotend but diverted from your part for preventing the breeze from warping things.

I melted my first hotend into oblivion around 245, just FYI.

I set it to 245 C, it reads 245 C, but when I put my digital temp probe on the PEEk it reads from 230 to 235. So there is a big gap between the reading and the PEEK true temp.

Flateric wrote:I could be wrong but you may also be hitting the upper end of what the thermistor can read too. So it may be hotter then the internal readings show. Be super careful as everyone says and be sure to have a great fan cooling the hotend but diverted from your part for preventing the breeze from warping things.

I melted my first hotend into oblivion around 245, just FYI.

Nylon 618 True bonding melt temp is 245 C. Rostock Max designed to handle 618 at 240 t0 250 C all day. I just need to change the Max so I can get close to 240 to 250. I can't even get that cause the thermo thinks it's 260 and shut off the machine.

elqisqeyano wrote:

Flateric wrote:I could be wrong but you may also be hitting the upper end of what the thermistor can read too. So it may be hotter then the internal readings show. Be super careful as everyone says and be sure to have a great fan cooling the hotend but diverted from your part for preventing the breeze from warping things.

I melted my first hotend into oblivion around 245, just FYI.

I set it to 245 C, it reads 245 C, but when I put my digital temp probe on the PEEk it reads from 230 to 235. So there is a big gap between the reading and the PEEK true temp.

You keep saying you are measuring on the PEEK, you need to be measuring at the interface between the Brass Nozzle and Aluminum heater or better inside the Nozzle.
The PEEK should be cooler.

elqisqeyano wrote: Rostock Max designed to handle 618 at 240 t0 250 C all day.

That I wouldn't say, I disassembled my hotend after printing half a roll of Nylon at 245 as indicated by the thermistor and my thermocouple, and there was certainly damage to the PTFE liner. If you want to print at 250+ you need a hotend without PTFE and without PEEK, there are a few around now, at least two started shipping this week.

Polygonhell wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote: Rostock Max designed to handle 618 at 240 t0 250 C all day.

That I wouldn't say, I disassembled my hotend after printing half a roll of Nylon at 245 as indicated by the thermistor and my thermocouple, and there was certainly damage to the PTFE liner. If you want to print at 250+ you need a hotend without PTFE and without PEEK, there are a few around now, at least two started shipping this week.

I measure temp with probe right where the brass nozzle meets the aluminum head. Where can I purchase one of these Hot Ends that can handle 250+?

elqisqeyano wrote:

Polygonhell wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote: Rostock Max designed to handle 618 at 240 t0 250 C all day.

That I wouldn't say, I disassembled my hotend after printing half a roll of Nylon at 245 as indicated by the thermistor and my thermocouple, and there was certainly damage to the PTFE liner. If you want to print at 250+ you need a hotend without PTFE and without PEEK, there are a few around now, at least two started shipping this week.

I measure temp with probe right where the brass nozzle meets the aluminum head. Where can I purchase one of these Hot Ends that can handle 250+?

This one is in the UK
http://e3d-online.com/

And this one is in the US based on the "Jolly Grim Reaper" design but it's currently .3mm only
http://trinitylabs.com/products/trinity ... emp-hotend

This one is in Germany uses PTFE but only at the top of the thermal break where temperatures are much lower it's has been around for a while but has a rep for being easily damaged.
http://wiki.arcol.hu/arcol-hu-hot-end-v4-assembly

And of course Prusa has one but up until now it's been unavailable.
http://prusanozzle.org/

Which one would be your personal preference for printing with Nylon 618?

I haven't used any of them and it's my understanding that without a PTFE liner the quality of the machining matters quite a lot. You might want to wait a few weeks to see how people react when they get them.
FWIW I have the E3D one and the Trinity labs ones on order to try, but I wouldn't hold your breath on a write up, I really hate tearing a working printer apart so I'll likely test them when I need the functionality for a project.
I'll probably also order the Prusa one when he starts using stainless instead of unobtainium. I suspect the SeeMeCNC guys probably have a greater insight into when that will be than most.

Polygonhell wrote:I haven't used any of them and it's my understanding that without a PTFE liner the quality of the machining matters quite a lot. You might want to wait a few weeks to see how people react when they get them.
FWIW I have the E3D one and the Trinity labs ones on order to try, but I wouldn't hold your breath on a write up, I really hate tearing a working printer apart so I'll likely test them when I need the functionality for a project.
I'll probably also order the Prusa one when he starts using stainless instead of unobtainium. I suspect the SeeMeCNC guys probably have a greater insight into when that will be than most.

I'm digging that Prusa, but I still ordered the E3D just to run tests of my own as to which gives the best prints.