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I am having a really hard time leveling my bed, I have a piece of glass on top of a piece of plexiglass. Usually I would wedge stuff between them until it was "level" But that is annoying and doesn't always work. I Now have my bed level enough to print med/small things easily. I have printed yoda, tree frog and headphone holders. But I really want to print the linear x-axis carriage but my bed isn't level enough to do it. Really could use some help.

Hey Tom, I'm not sure why your current solution is annoying and doesn't always work - once you have it leveled it should stay that way. Maybe you mean that you remove the glass periodically for some reason? Before I switched to a hot bed, here is what I did:

I cut a piece of .09" aluminum sheet the exact size of the table. You could also use 1/4" plywood or plexiglass for this. It will be used to strengthen the table and stabilize it from warping. This sheet is screwed to the original table in 8 places (each corner and in the middle of each edge,) with 4-40 SS screws. The idea is to snug it up against the original table tightly to remove any bowing and to stabilize it.

In my case, I then placed a sheet of 3/16" glass on top of this, 1/2" narrower and shorter. This leaves a 1/4" margin around its perimeter to clear the screws. You can alos make corner hold down clamps to hold the glass in place. This glass was my print surface. I held it in place masking tape while I leveled it using thin (.001") shim stock - cut up aluminum soda cans work great. The idea is to get it level with the shims using the tape to hold it down to the bed. Once it was leveled, I used silicone seal and put a dab on each corner, middle of the edges and in the middle between the glass and aluminum sub table. I then taped it all together tightly until cured.

Ideally you would not remove the glass but if you needed to, the silicone formed "pillars" that kept the glass at the correct place. There may be photos in my H-1 build thread.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Michael

I never got it leveled with my method, that's why it was annoying, My original bed warped so I decided not to use it. I might try some aluminum then.

When I made my first hot bed I completely replaced the plastic stock table (it was almost melted!) with an aluminum table. If you do that, you can level it when you do the install. There are photos of that and how I made the aluminum table on my build thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 3&start=40

cheers,
Michael

thanks, got some aluminum, is it possible to print right to the metal?

My table warped! SeeMeCNC sent me a new one but before I got it I made one out of 1/8 aluminium plate (you also need 2 1/8" cross members. I lined up the heated bed to mark the mounting holes. I drilled and tapped these. I then got some 1/8" automotive vacuum hose and cut 0.2" lengths. I use these as spacers to mount the heated bed, but they are rubber so I can adjust the heated bed by tightening and loosening the screws. this makes leveling easy! But don't get your aluminium plate from a frying pan as the aluminum is too soft. Oh - I counter sunk the #4 mounting screws in the heated bed and use #4 flat head screws so my surface is totally flat. Then my polycarbonate can be the same size as the heated bed. That makes it easier to clamp down. I also, made a cover for the thermistor and LED.