Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hi there everybody, greetings from NC;

I just finished building my first ever electronics kit ( but it reminded me of my dad building Radio Shack kits in the late 50s), a Rostock Max v2. Although I built it stock (except for stepper motor vibration dampers), I also got an E3D v6 extruder to install down the road. It probably took me more than 20 hrs, but that was because I read the build instructions three times, built once and slept a lot in between. And I learned a lot about the mechanical details of the machine in the process.

I want to make small mechanical parts with it for such things as sailboat self steering wind vane rigs. Since my interest is mechanical not art related, I was curious if anyone has suggestions for CAD software. I have a Shopbot cnc router, hence experience with Partworks for design (dxf files) and tool path generation. I mention that only because someone may have ideas for an easier transition for me softwarewise. I will happily post photos of my Rostock if someone would kindly give me a brief tutorial on how to do that.

welcome to the best 3d printer support group...
i am learning OnShape and it is discussed in this thread with several other popular options for free and low cost CAD software
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=9486

As far as posting pictures, there are a few options:

Attach them to your posts. So long as the forum is up, they will be available, but they show up at the end of posts.

Embed them. You can post/host them on many sites, such as Photobucket and Imgur. Then post the image location in "[img]" tags.

Link them. You can post links to them while they remain on another service such as googledrive, one drive, or dropbox.

I want to attach photos that are on this Verizon tablet but can't find the " attach" icon on this page; sorry if it isn't obvious.

Actually, having just finished my build I am keen to install my firmware into the Rambo and make the adjustment for the red Rambo PCB board - but, being such a novice, am a bit snowed by the instructions. Is there a support number or would it be possible to be lead through it over the phone. I am pretty smart but totally inexperienced in installing firmware. I purchased the Matter Control Touch tabletmso have Matter Control software on that. I can use this Verizon Android tablet as a wifi hot spot to communicate betweenmthe internet and the Matter Control Touch tablet and /or either a Windows XP pro laptop or a windows 8.1 laptop. I would be so appreciative of any help. I am guessing that layer and peeknfans are not yet in stalled because we are encouraged to print shrouds or mounts ourselves as learning projects.

I am in the process of building a Inkbird temperature regulated heated buildchamber enclosure with computer fan vent system; will have that up in a few days. Also will move the extruder motor out of the build chamber. My buiding prowess is admittedly aheadmof my computer skills, but I'll get there.

There's SeemeCNC's email support, as well as their live chat, not to mention the shop number, all of which are listed on their website. Beyond that, a large number of us here on the forums have skype accounts and similar, and usually are more than happy to help. I believe the only adjustment for the alternate PCB color is the cable orientation (If you're referring to the LCD, aka the bit with the screen and the knob. if it's the actual rambo controller you wire the power through, I have no idea. but for the LCD just flip the cables over until they work.)

The layer and peek fans are indeed not included, and are meant as confidence builders. Seeing the capability of the printer to make overhands and smooth surfaces, as well as the multiple dimensions which are easily checked to make sure the parts are coming out right, as well as standarization for people to start with makes sure that people's printers perform well, and that they know it.

For your chamber, do you have a design or style you're currently following?

Eric LB wrote:I want to attach photos that are on this Verizon tablet but can't find the " attach" icon on this page; sorry if it isn't obvious.

Actually, having just finished my build I am keen to install my firmware into the Rambo and make the adjustment for the red Rambo PCB board - but, being such a novice, am a bit snowed by the instructions. Is there a support number or would it be possible to be lead through it over the phone. I am pretty smart but totally inexperienced in installing firmware. I purchased the Matter Control Touch tabletmso have Matter Control software on that. I can use this Verizon Android tablet as a wifi hot spot to communicate betweenmthe internet and the Matter Control Touch tablet and /or either a Windows XP pro laptop or a windows 8.1 laptop. I would be so appreciative of any help. I am guessing that layer and peeknfans are not yet in stalled because we are encouraged to print shrouds or mounts ourselves as learning projects.

I am in the process of building a Inkbird temperature regulated heated buildchamber enclosure with computer fan vent system; will have that up in a few days. Also will move the extruder motor out of the build chamber. My buiding prowess is admittedly aheadmof my computer skills, but I'll get there.

When you post a new message or quote a message or reply to a message you will see at the middle left of the screen a box that says upload an attachment. If you push this button, a new window opens and asks you to browse your hard drive to find the image you want to post. Using file explorer or such, find the image that you want to post and then click add the file. After adding the file you need to be sure that the cursor is where you want the image to appear and click the place inline button to actually insert the image into your post. Although it sounds complicated after using it for awhile it becomes second nature to embed an image into your post. The Test Forum is best to use to perfect the adding of images and delete the post when you learn how to embed the
images. Please refer to us via message if you have any more questions on how to add an image to your posts.

My enclosure will most closely resemble Delta22's enclosure; the exhaust system is an exact copy of 3dprint's set up- squirrel cage fan to hose to out the window. The back, sides, top and bottom will be one unit and will slide into the Rostock ( think I'm gonna name mine "Samson"). Or Sampson slidesminto it depending on how you think about it. Unlike delta22's enclosure, mine will have 4 "legs" (corner posts will extend down to the desk surface) ,so that Sampson is not bearing any of the enclosure weight. There will be a recess in the left rear upper side for mounting the extruder outside the enclosure. I'll move its mount 5.75 " out mounting it undefined references the roof of my enclosure. Will post pics when its amfait accompli. I',ll simply pull the filament and PTFE tube from the extruder and disconnect electrical connectors on the extruder stepper motor wires when I want to slide Sampson out of his house. Screw on filler/sill pieces top and bottom will complete the door frame for a polycarbonate door. I'll leave the rear acrylic cover off the base and move the lcd mounting plate forward 1" for better cooling of the electronics. So , asnwithnthe delta22's enclosure, Sampson's base is not in the heated enclosure. I like Raymond and Jfettig style enclosures but I want to get it built with materials on hand before I start printing abs fan shrouds.

For heat I'll hang three 50 watt halogen bulbs plugged into the Inkbird. I am using 1/4" marine plywood with glued on aluminum foil and metal tape lining ( not near any wiring of course). I'm thinking of using a second Inkbird (they are dirt cheap) as a fire safety system- with Sampson's main power plug plugged into it and its temp set at 100 C and its probe near/ above the hot end. The logic here is that 99% of fires are probably due to failed hot end thermistors and "run away" hot ends.

Hmmm. Maybe that second Inkbird idea is half baked. How would I keep Sampson off/unplugged once the temp falls below 100degrees??? Are there Inkbird type devices that shut power off for good once the probe reaches a set temp??

Figured out the attachment thing, I think, except I didn't watch out for where the cursor was. Meet "Sampson".

I don't know of a temperature controller that would do it, but I know you can do it with a control relay, and a reset button. Say, 15$, 20$ worth of parts.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/ENhQUxL.jpg[/img]

Note that the left rail is mains voltage, and the right rail is neutral. Rung one contains a NO (M) switch, and connects to the coil of the control relay (Not the inkbird relay). Rung two is routed through the NC contact of the inkbird relay, and a NO contact on the control relay (This is to prevent if from starting without the reset switch being hit), and also goes to the control relay's coil. The coil then routes to neutral.

On rung three, the power to the printer passes through a NO contact on the relay before getting to the printer.

On rung four, which is utterly optional, it bases through a NC contact on the relay, before going to a big LED (Or other light), to indicate when it's tripped, or when there is power the the assembly, but not to the printer itself.

I suggest the following materials, but you'll have to source them yourself. Note that it will be more than 20$ worth, as it includes connectors, breakers, and other useful bits.
1. (1x) Ice-cube relay, 110Vac coil, 5A current, DPDT, form 2C ~5$
2. (2x) IEC sockets, 5A capacity. One for power to whole assembly, one for power to the inkbird ~2$ each
3. (2x) wall sockets, One for power out to printer (Switched), one for power out to inkbird relays(unswitched). ~4$, or ~25$ for the nifty ones with USB built in for an octoprint server to feed off.
4. (1x) Icecube relay base, form 2C ~5$
5. (1x) 5A circuit breaker, for short protection on the printer side (Patch into rung 3) ~18$
6. (1X) Nifty enclosure for whole mess, self designed and printed. ?$
7. 18AWG wire, stranded or not. ~10$, dependent on what you have lying around and smallest available spool size. Alternatively, use salvaged extension cords at or above 18 gauge.
8. (1x) light or 110Vac powerable LED setup

But that should give you about what you want, for a reasonable price (If you cut out the connectors, breakers, and other frills, it's pretty darned cheap)

Thanks so much for the how to with control relay and reset switch description (works kind of like the reset button on a ground fault breaker; BTW, would that work if one wired it to the Inkbird such that it ground faulted when the Inkbird interrupted power? I guess that wouldn't be so good though, unless one inserted a 5 amp breaker to protect the printer??. Are the NO and NC contacts labeled on the inkbird and on the Ice cube?

BTW , I picked up an extra DC 30A 12 volt power supply on Amazon so I can run my enclosure fan and whatever else completely separately from Sampson.

I agree that even $75 is small potato's compared to possible fire damage disaster no matter how remote. I think this system is all the more important since I am doing the heat enclosure and also plan on going to the E3D v6 hot end as soon as I master printing with the stock hot end (will probably print another effector plate and get another set of ball joints for rapid change outs).

If you prefer or if it's better etiquette to go off forum, my email is: [email protected]; cell phone 252_670-5456 I have the Tango app (works like Skype) if I can figure out how to use it. I'm guessing it's easy; if I am on line it will tell me I have an incoming call?

The contacts on the icecube relays are labeled, as was my Inkbird unit (You want the cooling side for NO).

Say you use this relay: http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Sho ... QL2N1-A120
Contacts 5 and 6 are common. For contact 5, 3 is NO and 1 is NC, while for contact 6, 2 is NC and 4 is NO. 7 and eight are coil contacts.

I can't honestly tell you much about if a GFCI will work for this. I am largely trained on hydraulic/pneumatic ladder and relay logic (Which is what this is), with only the basics of electrical experience. Relays are relays though, so a latching circuit in one is a latching circuit in all kinda of ladder logic.

Let us all know how your watchdog system works. When you do go to the E3D, I suggest you print one of the effectors with built in fan ducting (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511 for example), and get the 713 maker mount (The wire strain relief is very handy for when changing hotends, it can be quick swapped on it's own, and it's a nice piece of kit)