Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Here is a small video of autocalibration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ado_kLS ... e=youtu.be

I think i have to install some round (spherical tips) over the magnet to get a good grip on ball...

Must be convenient to have the machine do all the calibration automatically, rather than endlessly fiddling with the end stop screws... at the end of all this, your machine might wind up being the best out of everyone's!

Nice! Is it possible to set up an inductive proximity probe on the Max v2?

you need 3US dollar inductive probe and a mounting at effector...
DELTA-1 turned black ... MDF absorb color better say it drink color...so did a primer of (50%Wood glue+50% water mixture)..after dryout just spray paint...

I want to make sure I'm not being ignorant, but are those the Unown Pokemon spelling out "Delta 1" in orange on the side of your printer?

That's what I thought it was before, but with the close-up it's hard for me to deny...
Edit: Upon closer inspection, they indeed are NOT pokemon, yet bare a striking resemblance in my opinion.

Anywhere else, you might have been ridiculed for knowing that.

This is Alien Lines font:
http://www.fontriver.com/font/alien_lines/

Finally installed the last piece of the puzzle...the extruder motor...

Your printer looks absolutely amazing!

Agreed, looks amazing!

I've got an idea for all of those protruding screws from the linear rails:

[img]http://www.madratrubber.com/tall_spikes.jpg[/img]

Thanks teri &jim
I like the idea of installation of these nice caps Thanks for posting...lets see how my 1st print turned out?

Do you by chance have any building plans for your cnc router?

I have 4 NEMA 23's and matching geckodrive G213's and a controller that need a project like that.

I am not an organized man.. may be somewhere i have it i will search but i think i shall find in bits and pieces..
Today was the first test print... PLA 215 Nozzle and 75C bed temperature...used white glue stick. The raft was detached but the brim was solidly adhered to the bed till the end of the print..
http://youtu.be/Ik7lkaavRuA

some photoes

Now i need help ... why the bridging between the parts... and all my 5 cylindrical objects are somehow flat at exactly opposite side..why?

One thing i want to share with community that i am printing on Ordinary 3mm glass... no borosilicate tempered glass... i am printing PLA and the glass temperature maximum is around 55~60C.. so far no glass breakage

belt tensioner...

You just stuff the belt in there and it tension it up or is there more to it?

I didnot do the calibration pieces yet... someone guide me what are the calibration pieces you SeeMeCNC doing to calibrate?

Though the auto-calibration function worked great and the sample test results were also promising...But i need much more than that...more accuracy, repeatability and precision or mix of all these ..Presently the bed is fixed and i can not adjust it for leveling purpose... .... So back to the CAD modelling stuff, designed the new part for precise leveling of the bed...The new part will help me leveling using 3-point contact method....Machined the part and can be seen how 6mm Nut set in the machined recess ... Unable to do all this without CNC.... i need the same accuracy of my CNC machine in the 3D printer...

Wow..yesterday i received the magnets (took 40 days from China)..These are tiny magnets N50 but very very strong... I installed 06 of the countersunk magnets on the original magnets(Dart game Magnets) using super gluei...but the rest of 6 can not be installed as the DART magnets are already fixed in the machine and i am getting polarity difference with the new magnets:(.... With half of the magnets installed i calibrated the DELTA-1 and 3d printed some of the parts that will receive the new magnets..ultimately machine is now making parts for his own and i see bigger difference of quality with the new magnets...

Khalid Khattak wrote:Installed the belt by my own way ... was thinking how to lock , how to make proper tension. here is the simple procedure.

I spliced belts before by cutting a 10-tooth-long section, then supergluing it to the belt ends upside down so that the teeth on the 10-tooth segment engaged with the teeth on the main loop ends. This works well, but if you do this in a section that has to roll over pulleys, it will effectively change the belt length as it transits the pulley.

SeeMeCNC machines terminate the belts on the carriages themselves. One half is clamped to the top, the other to the bottom. There is no splicing involved. I had to splice one of mine for a short while because it broke, and SeeMeCNC takes a few days to ship to my address.

I have a printable Z probe that I designed for calibration, but now I think mounting the heated bed to three FSRs (one near X, one near Y, and one near Z) is a better solution. For one, the probe's offset from the actual nozzle means you never get the best calibration possible. (You could, if you dismount the hot end and mount your probe dead center.) I extended the Smoothie firmware to do a full heuristic calibration (figure out each tower's radius & rotation offset, plus the arm length, endstops, and bed surface normal, using a parallel simulated annealing algorithm) and one of the things I wrote in was some code to handle probe offsets. It works, mechanically. But even though the probe is mounted only a few millimeters from the center, the results I got were an order of magnitude worse using the probe offsets, than not using them. There is too much error introduced by the physical offset, due to the nonlinear Cartesian->delta coordinate translations.

My code can also do a height map-based correction, where it just probes a grid and does bilinear interpolation. That works fine with probe offset. However, while the heuristic calibration corrects error in X, Y, and Z, only using height map correction only corrects errors in Z without addressing X or Y. So your prints will get a perfect 1st layer, but the dimensional tolerance in X and Y will be off.

Anyway, if you use FSRs, you get three benefits:
- No error induced from probe offset
- No need to change between probe and hot end to calibrate
- It may be possible to write code that uses the FSRs to triangulate the X, Y position where the bed is touched, meaning that calibration can be more accurate than only reading Z; this is dependent on whether the FSRs have enough resolution and repeatability to triangulate at 30 microns or less (20 is acceptable, 5 or less is "perfect")

Someone else is using triple FSRs connected in parallel. It doesn't triangulate, but even without triangulation, one FSR near each tower still does a very good job. He ran my firmware and got a repeatability with sigma=0 (in other words, it always triggers at PRECISELY the same number of steps). My probe is based on a Hall effect switch and I got a repeatability of about 20 microns, sigma of ~0.6, pretty good but still not as good as the FSRs.

Also, I like the dado cuts in the plywood. It seems a nice construction. The Rostock MAX kits have a lot of slop on the towers during the tightening procedure, because they are not captured or constrained very well. They can lean in or out, and be at slightly different heights, because you have to eyeball too many things. Their radius and rotation about the print center is usually off a little bit as well. Other Rostock designs (including yours) seem to do a better job at this.

I've always thought the part where the tower connects to the top plate is one of the weak points of the RMax design, it's like a really floppy, fragile, weak joint that can cause calibration problems and wobbles in the print.

I think one of the benefits of using a force sensor to touch off the nozzle is that the aluminum T slot towers will grow in length from temperature changes. If towers change temperature by only 7 degrees C, the towers will grow 0.2mm. Which is enough to mess up first layer adhesion. This is only a problem if the zeroing position is at the top of the printer; by moving the zeroing point to the bottom and touching the plate with the nozzle, repeatability is near perfect.

One thing I'm concerned about is having any solid plastic on the tip of the nozzle when it touches the plate. If calibration is done when the hotend is hot, this isn't a problem, but if the hotend is cool the layer might start 0.5mm higher since the plastic would get between the nozzle and the plate.

What an amazing build! Your ingenuity, attention to detail and passion really shine through! Very impressive; thank you for sharing your build with us.

nice! I brainstormed about using those rails like those for your arms. Better than cheapskates IMHO.

Thanks to all. some work presently doing.