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I bought the sensors and board from http://tridprinting.com. The sensors are also available from Digi-Key. I made the aluminum pieces on my lathe.

Got any sort of drawings or specs for those? I'm taking a class for machining on lathes and I'm sure I could make some of those.

So I borrowed my dad's framing square and got the towers pretty square (according to the square, dunno how accurate it is considering its probably 15-20 years old and pretty well used). I redid the 3 point calibration and used Guanu's great G-code where it puts the effector at Z=0, and then moves it to each point for 1 second. Looked pretty good, so I swapped the sign on the Y values to check the other 3 points (simple little trick I use, so I don't find out my bed isn't very level during a print lol). It was pretty good considering how bad its been in the past. Not completely sure, but the Y tower may still be a tiny bit off, but it looked quite good, probably within .1mm for all 7 points. Hopefully repetier fixes their "auto leveling" feature so those coolio FSR sensors can be used for more than just touching off (though thats really useful!).

I have a project I'm trying out in my lathe class when I get done with the projects assigned (ahead of the class yo). I'm going to try to machine a few different nozzle designs for my Kraken. The default E3d nozzles do pretty well, but I noticed with my Pico and what Ive seen off the Merlin (uses airbrush tips for nozzles) a sharper angle with less brass around the orfice (kinda hard to explain, ill post pictures of my CAD drawings) seems to give better surface finish results. There are a few problems that come with this, but I think I got these problems from other "issues" with the Pico design. I put this in quotes because the Pico isn't really a bad design, but it does need some work and design considerations (I had to print some of my Nylon 645 at 295C to get good results, and ABS was around 270 at 40 mm/sec, and I didn't really want to try any PLA considering the HUGE melt zone on it). Ignoring that, I think these nozzles I have designed (one has an 80 degree point and the other is 70 (regular E3d is 70 (not actually "sharper" in the sense of angle), but they are pretty short and squat in comparison to the Ultimaker or Pico designs (or really a lot of others)) Both aren't too much longer than the standard E3d nozzles. I have them designed to have the hole drilled with a 2mm drill bit ground to the same angle as the nozzle. Considering its brass I'm machining, it shouldn't be too difficult to get a fairly smooth bore, even at that angle. I plan to ream the 2mm hole so its a bit smoother as well). I would post pictures of my drawings, but AutoCAD didn't transfer as well as I would have liked from the crude backup I made, gotta reinstall it.

A lot of that was probably kinda convoluted and confusing, but hopefully you get the gist of it. The design seems promising and I'll see what sort of PLA performance I get out of it (as well as others)

Nylocke wrote:Got any sort of drawings or specs for those? I'm taking a class for machining on lathes and I'm sure I could make some of those.

There is a simple drawing in my thread already. In the mean time I have made a small modification to the puck piece, when I get a chance I'll update the drawing.

What is wrong with the Repetier leveling? Seems to work for me. I use "G32 S2".
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29-G32:_Bed_probing

I saw that, didn't realize what it was for until now, lol. Thanks.

I was under the impression that it wasn't working very well (read some posts with people complaining that the auto leveling was worse than manual calibration?)

I saw that too, but I have no problems with it. I noticed that the other dimensions in Configuration.h need to be correct or it will throw it off. I am also using v 0.92, maybe it has some fixes.

My bed is pretty level, though. Mostly I'm correcting for changes in Z height at different temperatures.

Which dimensions are you referring to? Also after taking a good look at your setup, how is the bed attached to the base? Looks like you have it set up so 3 of the corners of the bed screw into the top part of the FSR mounts and then 3 screws go into the bottom part of the FSR mounts through the top panel of the base? Is your bed actually securely mounted or?

I found out I've been using the wrong thermistor in Repetier. That explains why I've had to print 20+ degrees above normal temp. Ive been doing this since I had my V5 on my Ultimaker, oops. I thought any 100k thermistor table would do, shows how much I know about temp sensors.

I finally decided to do a real full calibration of my printer. I've been using MSURunner's calibration guide on youtube. I rechecked the squareness of the extrusions to the bed. Turns out the Y tower was STILL leaning too far out. The X was fine and the Y was leaning in a tiny bit. Got them all finally finished up. I got really frustrated of having to add an hour to the print time by printing a raft. Hopefully I can get this thing damn near perfect.

Nylocke wrote:Which dimensions are you referring to? Also after taking a good look at your setup, how is the bed attached to the base? Looks like you have it set up so 3 of the corners of the bed screw into the top part of the FSR mounts and then 3 screws go into the bottom part of the FSR mounts through the top panel of the base? Is your bed actually securely mounted or?

Things like PRINTER_RADIUS and DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD make a big difference. The software needs to know the nozzle position correctly (aka z-probe) to be able to calculate the plane of the bed.

Have you looked at the datasheet for the FSR sensors? The bottom is a pressure sensitive adhesive. On the top I use double sided tape (high temperature rated meant for heatsinks). I don't know what you mean by "securely mounted", I guess that's up to your interpretation. But it is not possible to hard bolt the bed down with the FSR sensors, that's the whole point of the pieces I made...

Nylocke wrote:I finally decided to do a real full calibration of my printer. I've been using MSURunner's calibration guide on youtube. I rechecked the squareness of the extrusions to the bed. Turns out the Y tower was STILL leaning too far out. The X was fine and the Y was leaning in a tiny bit. Got them all finally finished up. I got really frustrated of having to add an hour to the print time by printing a raft. Hopefully I can get this thing damn near perfect.

I searched for MSURunner's calibration on youtube and found nothing after entering various and different search parameters. Could you post the link?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrrO0elGXJM Its pretty in depth and (for me) a tiny bit confusing, but it did help.

I wasn't sure and so I didn't want to assume anything. What do you do for the other 3 mounts points?

It took me 4 hours to do the upgrade, but a whole night, 60 pictures, and an aching back (I'm too young for an aching back :/) later its finished!

Nylocke wrote:I'm too young for an aching back

You avatar would agree

Farnsworth may be nearing his second century, but I am only nearing my second decade

Nylocke wrote:Farnsworth may be nearing his second century, but I am only nearing my second decade

College plans?

Psst! Dude! Your effector platform is upside down.

Just sayin'.

g.

That's intentional, the Kraken mounts better that way

Yeah, I've been accepted to ISU, going for Materials Engineering.

My cousin graduated from there.

Its a pretty good engineering college, what did he go for?

Nylocke wrote:That's intentional, the Kraken mounts better that way

Yeah, I've been accepted to ISU, going for Materials Engineering.

I'm happy for you, as I have told you before you are one of the brightest people on this forum and with
the college training and applying yourself you will have a great future. Best of luck to you!

Thanks Carl! you're one of the kindest people on the forum.

He studied industrial engineering and then got a phd in history of technology.

He is a very happy almond and olive farmer now.

teoman wrote:He studied industrial engineering and then got a phd in history of technology.

He is a very happy almond and olive farmer now.

Is this really a true story? As long as he is happy is key.