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Hey everyone ultimachines is taking care of it for me and going to send it back. Should be back this week do you think I had the bed too hot and that's why the wires burned up. I thought 80 degrees was for PLA not ABS. I'll try 85 when I get my Rambo back.

Also I red the hoopla fan thread do you think I could benefit from one when my prints are looking like this? Didn't start happening until I went with a diff type of filament from eBay but again I think it's just my settings are not correct. Extruder temp is at 220.

[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... 7a31a3.png[/img]

[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22 ... bf254c.png[/img]

tc3jg wrote:Hey everyone ultimachines is taking care of it for me and going to send it back. Should be back this week do you think I had the bed too hot and that's why the wires burned up. I thought 80 degrees was for PLA not ABS. I'll try 85 when I get my Rambo back.

Also I red the hoopla fan thread do you think I could benefit from one when my prints are looking like this? Didn't start happening until I went with a diff type of filament from eBay but again I think it's just my settings are not correct. Extruder temp is at 220.

To get hot enough to burn the connector the connection to the connector wasn't right, too much resistance. When you get it back make sure the wire doesn't have any
solder on it, twist the strands together and carefully insert it into the connector making sure no strands are sticking out to possibly short out. Tighten the wire down securely
to the connector but don't twist off the screw. What gauge of wire are you using from the connector to the heat bed? If not large enough that could be another source of heat.
Someone can correct me if I am wrong but the wire size should be a minimum of 14 gauge or multiple wires that add up to 14 gauge.
It's good to know that Ultimachine will fix those boards. Happy printing!

I really, really, really wish Ultimachine would go back to the connector type that was on the original version of the RAMBo. They were SO much easier to work with in the small space where it's installed.

Good advice Eaglezsoar.

g.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

tc3jg wrote:Hey everyone ultimachines is taking care of it for me and going to send it back. Should be back this week do you think I had the bed too hot and that's why the wires burned up. I thought 80 degrees was for PLA not ABS. I'll try 85 when I get my Rambo back.

Also I red the hoopla fan thread do you think I could benefit from one when my prints are looking like this? Didn't start happening until I went with a diff type of filament from eBay but again I think it's just my settings are not correct. Extruder temp is at 220.

To get hot enough to burn the connector the connection to the connector wasn't right, too much resistance. When you get it back make sure the wire doesn't have any
solder on it, twist the strands together and carefully insert it into the connector making sure no strands are sticking out to possibly short out. Tighten the wire down securely
to the connector but don't twist off the screw. What gauge of wire are you using from the connector to the heat bed? If not large enough that could be another source of heat.
Someone can correct me if I am wrong but the wire size should be a minimum of 14 gauge or multiple wires that add up to 14 gauge.
It's good to know that Ultimachine will fix those boards. Happy printing!

If the wire gauge is too large, you can end up trapping only a small fraction of it in the connector and have the same issues. Anytime the resistance of the connection itself is a significant portion of the overall circuit you're going to melt connectors.
Personally I'm still running my Onyx with a couple of 18 gauge wires, and I've run other beds with a single 18 Gauge wire without issues, the wires do not get hot, which implies they are not syncing a significant portion of the power, larger wire certainly won't hurt as long as you make a good connection, but at some point getting a good connection on connectors of this type with oversized wires becomes a challenge.

Ok cool thanks everyone ill be looking to go ahead and use the correct gauge in gene instructions. I had used speaker wire two wires for each pole.

tc3jg wrote:Ok cool thanks everyone ill be looking to go ahead and use the correct gauge in gene instructions. I had used speaker wire two wires for each pole.

Following Gene's instructions is always a good idea.

Eaglezsoar I've run into my first snag following Genes instructions after I messed up the settings on my printer. Im calibrating it now and am at the step where I send the G28 Command and its suppose to go up to the end stop switch. When I give the command it just moves up about 3cm. Does not go all the way up to the end stop switches.

tc3jg wrote:Eaglezsoar I've run into my first snag following Genes instructions after I messed up the settings on my printer. Im calibrating it now and am at the step where I send the G28 Command and its suppose to go up to the end stop switch. When I give the command it just moves up about 3cm. Does not go all the way up to the end stop switches.

It sounds as though you are having some endstop problems.
I want you to take a look at this link, http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=3830
If you still have the problem, search the troubleshooting forum for G28 and one of the finds should be what is happening to
your printer. If you still have problems after that, contact us again with the same subject matter and we will help you find out
what is going on, we will not quit until we get it resolved. Okay, read the link, search for G28 if the first link doesn't help and
if those found links don't help then contact us again.

clean install of the firmware as my machine stands yields no results it will still move up all axis 2 cm and hit endstops (in theory keep going up)

tc3jg wrote:clean install of the firmware as my machine stands yields no results it will still move up all axis 2 cm and hit endstops (in theory keep going up)

First, I want to apologize to you. I became hostile for awhile and that is not the real me. Now let's drop all that and see if we can get your printer to work.

You reflashed the firmware and nothing changed which leads me to believe that the EEPROM is still not right and is over-riding everything.
Let's open Repetier host and get to the screen where it allows you to enter commands.
Enter M502 in the command box and send it.
Enter M500 in the command box and send it.
After doing those two commands turn off the printer then turn it back on and see if the problem is fixed. Let me know.

tc3jg, have you tried it yet?

Haven't tried it yet eagleszoar but will get around to it tomorrow stay tuned

Hey Eaglezsoar those commands sent it all the way down the the heat bed full speed, the second after i hit the endstop switches would send it all the way up non stop.

should i make another move after doing that?

tc3jg wrote:Hey Eaglezsoar those commands sent it all the way down the the heat bed full speed, the second after i hit the endstop switches would send it all the way up non stop.

should i make another move after doing that?

Where did you get the version of Repetier that you reflashed with the last time you reflashed?
When you completed the calibration of your printer the first time and everything worked okay did you write down the values that you had changed in configuration.h?

We need to do a lot more but I need those two questions answered first.

Also, do you have a phone near your printer, and are you located in the States?
I think we are going to need better communications to get this fixed. I would call
you at a phone located at the printer and we would work until we get it working.
Let me know about that also but if you give me a phone number put it in a private message to
me so the whole world doesn't know it. Then we should schedule a time when you can dedicate time to the
printer, my schedule is very flexible because I am on disability. I am on Eastern Time. Can we work something out along these lines?
I am willing to work with you for as long as it takes because I want to get you printing again. But by using the Forum it could take us
months.

That would be awesome ill be off on saturday and could probably call you or you call me around 4pm. PM you my cell now

4PM on Saturday sounds good. PM me and give me your first and last name so I know who I am talking to. Or leave it in a message if you don't mind people knowing.
My first and last name is Carl Little
I did receive your PM that you sent giving me your phone number. I will be calling at 4 PM on Saturday.

Carl mine is

Justin Gholson
Talk to you soon

The extruder calibration I was talking about is here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1163

Let me know when you do your first test print, I would like to know how it came out.

Ok Eaglezsoar looks like I will be good to go I've been slowly putting in the settings to get it back right its been fun using configuration H and sending it to the eeprom.

You'll be fine. Don't forget to take a picture of your first test print. It would be great to see it.

Wish I had a test print for you Eaglezoar now I'm having some feed issues. The extruder motor is grinding into the filament as it tries to feed. Not sure if not having a peek fan is playing a role or if its just cheap dried out filament.

tc3jg wrote:Wish I had a test print for you Eaglezoar now I'm having some feed issues. The extruder motor is grinding into the filament as it tries to feed. Not sure if not having a peek fan is playing a role or if its just cheap dried out filament.

Release the bowden tube from the hotend and feed the filament by hand, you will also have to release the extruder pressure by pushing on the lever if you have the EZstruder.
Can you feed the filament by hand? If you cannot push the filament through the hotend by hand increase the temperature of the hotend (do not exceed 240) until you can push
the filament by hand. If you cannot push the filament through by hand the Extruder is not going to be able to push it through either. If the case is that you cannot push it
through by hand even at 240C then you have a hotend that is plugged and you will have to disassemble it and clear the clog. Let me know the result of trying to push through by
hand.

With some force I can push it through by hand Eaglezsoar