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I would recommend using the EEPROM settings whenever possible. You should really only tweak the #defines in configuration.h for things that are VERY static, such as tweaking the DELTA_RADIUS (or whatever that's called now - I don't recall) figure to flatten the travel of the effector end.

For example, when I change from a PLA glass that's just got glue on it, to an ABS glass that's got a skin of window tint on it, I tweak my max height in both the EEPROM settings (x, y and z are set to the same value) as well as in the Repetier-Host printer configuration screen.

Because Repetier is now the shipping firmware, the 2nd edition of the manual will cover exactly how to set it up. I'm also planning on doing a video that illustrates _exactly_ how to calibrate the three towers and the delta radius. I will try very hard to do it in the style of /r/explainlikeimfive.

I can just about guarantee that without the PEEK fan, you'll get a PLA jam within an hour of turning on the hot end. The fan makes a _huge_ difference. I'd also recommend installing a layer fan for use with PLA. It really improves the print quality.

g.

Can't wait to see the new version of the manual. You've done a great job so far Gene, I'd have been lost many times without it!

geneb wrote:I would recommend using the EEPROM settings whenever possible. You should really only tweak the #defines in configuration.h for things that are VERY static, such as tweaking the DELTA_RADIUS (or whatever that's called now - I don't recall) figure to flatten the travel of the effector end.

For example, when I change from a PLA glass that's just got glue on it, to an ABS glass that's got a skin of window tint on it, I tweak my max height in both the EEPROM settings (x, y and z are set to the same value) as well as in the Repetier-Host printer configuration screen.

Because Repetier is now the shipping firmware, the 2nd edition of the manual will cover exactly how to set it up. I'm also planning on doing a video that illustrates _exactly_ how to calibrate the three towers and the delta radius. I will try very hard to do it in the style of /r/explainlikeimfive.

I can just about guarantee that without the PEEK fan, you'll get a PLA jam within an hour of turning on the hot end. The fan makes a _huge_ difference. I'd also recommend installing a layer fan for use with PLA. It really improves the print quality.

g.

Thanks. I suspect folks will like the current production parts a lot better than the Indiegogo campaign parts that I based the original manual off of.

g.

Hello everyone!

I am still having GREAT trouble printing with ABS. I just cannot get it to stick. I think I might not be getting the Onyx hot enough.

I have tried several setting from completely off to 100 degrees. I am trying to let it get hotter, but it keeps kicking off and displays "killed" on the LCD. Is there a way to connect a separate power supply to just the Onyx, or can I connect one to help supplement the first one?

I have read that I need the bed to be at least 110 degrees for ABS. Is this correct?

The hotend seems to be doing a good job. I have printed from between 125 and 145 and it seems to flow fine..

Thanks again for you help/advise !!

Have a GREAT day !!

Buck_weat

my heat bed is usually at 85C for abs. what are you using to stick the abs to the build surface?
acetone mixed with abs works very well with no warping. also known as abs juice.


also your temps maybe off, from your saying.
have checked the hot end and heat bed with a thermocouple meter? this step shouldn't be skipped or needs to be added to the manual if its not in there.

cambo3d wrote:my heat bed is usually at 85C for abs. what are you using to stick the abs to the build surface?
acetone mixed with abs works very well with no warping. also known as abs juice.


also your temps maybe off, from your saying.
have checked the hot end and heat bed with a thermocouple meter? this step shouldn't be skipped or needs to be added to the manual if its not in there.

Hi Cambo3D,

I have tried the ABS Juice. I had a small success last night when I printed the lower half of a Raspberry Pi case. I actually used the white glue mixture with hair spray on top.

As for checking the temperatures, I bought one of those infrared heat guns. Should I get one of those multimeters with the temperature probes instead? It would probably be more accurate.

Anyway, thank you for your help, and have a GREAT weekend !


Buck_weat

infrared temperature meters don't work very well for 3d printers. get a contact type thermocouple meter.

I am not having any luck with this printer. I should probably offer it up for sale before I take a hammer to it...although the pleasure I might get from that might be worth the $1000 right now...


I bought a 25mm fan for the hotend, but it still gets stopped up if I try to use the PLA, so that didn't help.

As for ABS, I have tried every range of temperatures for both the bed and the nozzle. I have tried blue painter's tape, ABS juice, white glue, hair spray, and every combination of these I can think of and still nothing will stick to the bed. The only thing I have not tried yet is the Kapton tape.

And IF something does by chance barely stay in place for a few layers of printing, then I get globs of plastic built up that harden and then the nozzle rams into it as it passes over the top of it. Also the nozzle gets filthy and the plastic curls up and gets gummed up all around the tip.

How hot is the bed supposed to get? Maybe it is not getting hot enough. It MIGHT reach 107-110 degrees, but that is it and it takes a while to get that hot. Things do seem to stick a little better (not by much) in the center of the bed.

I knew there would be a big learning curve with this, but I am growing more frustrated daily and fun factor is quickly shrinking.

If anyone has any ideas or knows something that might help, I would greatly appreciate it..

Thanks for putting up with my whining, and have a great day..

Buck_weat

abs juice works really well for me. and i dont even measure it, i guess guessimate, and it works everytime.

have you been able to check you your bed temperature with contact type thermocouple meter?

cambo3d wrote:abs juice works really well for me. and i dont even measure it, i guess guessimate, and it works everytime.

have you been able to check you your bed temperature with contact type thermocouple meter?

No, I don't have one of those yet. I guess I will need to look for one of those. What temp do you usually have your bed when you print?


Thank you for your fast reply. I really do appreciate it.


Buck_weat

85c or more

Adhesion is really a combination of surface and distance. If your laying plastic down and it's just not sticking you may want to try lowering the starting Z height a bit. I would also recommend that you ensure the flow from the extruder is correct. If you have calibrated it properly, it's hard to not get something that resembles the final product, albeit ugly.