Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

jdurand wrote:That being said, it's a good idea to not have your heater a lot bigger than your max need.

Right. If the firmware hangs or the MOSFET fails and you have a big ole heater, you have a fire on your hands. If you have a reasonably sized heater, no harm done.

rpress wrote:Interesting, why the transition from 40W elements to 25W? I guess it doesn't say on your web site which heater element is sent so it could be anything I suppose.

As mentioned before, safety in the event of a firmware hang or MOSFET failure. The website does say red heaters are 40w, blue heaters are 25w.

rpress wrote:The heat lost by extruding the filament needs to be replenished by the heater; it seems like you're not accounting for this fact when you only mention temperature. The Volcano can extrude filament 3x faster than the v6 so it will lose 3x the heat due to this. It's possible something else is a limiting factor, I haven't run any thermodynamics calculations. But it seems weird that the Volcano can put out 3x the filament volume but it ships with a heater that has 2/3 the power.

It isn't "weird", it is a sign of how overkill 40w heaters are. The energy spent melting the filament is minimal (5-10w) compared to the energy lost to air and radiation.

rpress wrote:About my order I had an extra 0.8mm nozzle in the bag but it was for a v6 (I think). I ordered the nozzle separate from the heat block, and I did receive the nozzle for the Volcano that I wanted so it wasn't a problem for me, just odd.

Enjoy the freebie, if it bothers you you can send it back!

rpress wrote:

jdurand wrote: That being said, it's a good idea to not have your heater a lot bigger than your max need. It's easier to control a heater that's closely matched to it's load. I made a regulator for my wife that she uses on counter-top cookers when she's doing small quantities. She can turn the heat power down to just higher than needed for the thermostat to cycle.

Yeah I agree. Although to somewhat offset that problem the maximum duty cycle could be limited.

Which works fine as long as your firmware never freezes and your MOSFET never fails. Can you guarantee that?

elmoret wrote:

jdurand wrote:That being said, it's a good idea to not have your heater a lot bigger than your max need.

That isn't true. If the firmware hangs or the MOSFET fails and you have a big ole heater, you have a fire on your hands. If you have a reasonably sized heater, no harm done.

Hum I think you're actually agreeing with him?

elmoret wrote:Which works fine as long as your firmware never freezes and your MOSFET never fails. Can you guarantee that?

LOL you're awfully feisty for someone actually trying to get more customers! Maybe you have too many and need to shed a few. I've read about you on the RepRap forum too.

rpress wrote:Hum I think you're actually agreeing with him?

That sentence was confusing, I'm sorry for misinterpreting it. If he's saying to match the heater to the task then I agree! Post edited.

Confusing I speak try not to.

I was planing on buying a 2-channel Kraken to try the ABS/HIPS combo. It looks good the water cooling option, because it would let me build a heated chamber.
But I'm really scared about leveling 2 nozzles, if the print lifts just a little bit it would drag everything.

Could the Cyclops do the job? I mean, ABS and HIPS for support.

Tincho85 wrote:Could the Cyclops do the job? I mean, ABS and HIPS for support.

That's the exact combo I'll be trying out once I finish getting my Cyclops set up.

I haven't come up with alot of reasons to print in two colors, but using HIPS for support material would make so many print jobs easier.

E3D just shipped my Legends Pack, I am looking forward to duel head printing!

My legends pack finally shipped !

I'm feeling so jealous right now lol

Please share your experiences with these 2 hot ends!

So, after sitting on my bench for far too long, I finally got around to building my Cyclops last night.

Mechanically, it's behaving exactly as expected. I need to play with the retract settings a bit, but my first print showed that I'm really close.

The 25w (blue) heater cartridge takes longer to get to temperature, but after that seems to be able to keep up.

The cold end stays warmer than the v5/v6 cold ends, but the fan is quieter.

I have it set up with ABS and HIPS.

The prime tower is set for 50mm of material, I may need to make it a bit bigger, there's a hint of blue in the HIPS extrusion. The ABS portion of the print looks perfect.

Using Cura is a bit new for me, but seems familiar. I just needed to take my time to review every setting.

So far the only challenge I have is that Cura isn't generating support for horizontal overhangs in 15.02.1
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=8026

[img]http://i.imgur.com/6YyI1qA.jpg[/img]

Make sure your heaterblocks aren't too close to the platform! Mine were on my first revisions and it warped the platform quite a bit!

Yep, I ended up having to flip around the hot end because of the way the cold end mounts to the platform, and the effector platform has about 5-6mm spacing between the heater block and the platform.

So far, so good.

Cyclops + Xnaron + ABS/HIPS Combo, that's just awesome!!
I'm going to follow you everywhere

If you can fix the overhang issue post some prints

So, after sorting out my Cura issues, I've completed my first test print. It's a very easy one, with simple support.

I'm using natural HIPS for support, and it looks like it's taking on a slight hue from the ABS during the transition, which is fine.

The tower was set to purge 50mm3 of filament, which is too much, I'm seeing the transition about half way through the layer, next time I'll try 30mm3 to save some time.

I need to tune the retraction settings, but the stringing is cosmetic, and was easily removed from the part.
This was with 3mm retraction, no extra retraction for dual extrusion switch. I wonder if I set that a bit higher like 4 or 5 if that would make a difference.

Overall the part turned out ok. The surface finish isn't as nice as what I was getting from the V6 and KISSlicer, but that's most likely the fault of the slicer or settings.
I'm going to try running the same part, single material using KISSlicer with the Cyclops just to rule out the hardware.

The support from the hole was a bit of a pain to remove. I chose grid with 50% fill for support.

Overall I'd say it turned out rather well for a first successful print.

In theory, as long as I have the second cold end stuffed with filament, I should be able to use it just like a single V6 with KISSlicer when I need to, and like a Cyclops with Cura otherwise.


[img]http://i.imgur.com/ZOCKpN6.jpg[/img]

What is your noxxle temp? I haven't used a cyclops but that isn't enough retraction for my chimera

I print my ABS at 260c.

Yeah, after that I noticed that mattercontrol supports solid wipe towers, so my next print was from mattercontrol.

I had spent a bit more time tuning the parameters in the past, so overall the result was better.
3mm retract on move, 4mm retract on toolchange seemed to do the trick.

Personally, I don't see a reason to use Cura for Cyclops. Mattercontrol works just fine.

I'm still trying to figure out the reason behind the difference in surface finish. I'm running a couple more parts using both my V6 and the Cyclops. I can't think of any reason why the Cyclops would have a rougher surface finish. Hopefully it's just a roll of bum filament.

Hi Gestalt, I'm glad you could make it work. It's looking good for the first test print.

But I'm curious... why that hot? Or you thermistor is missreading and it's actually a lower temperature?
If you print with lower temps you will get a smoother finish and better overhangs, but I'm sure you already know that.

gestalt73 wrote:So, after sitting on my bench for far too long, I finally got around to building my Cyclops last night.

Looks like you used one of my mounting designs. Since mine is still in the mail and I haven't actually tried it yet...how did it work out for you?

Hey Tincho85,

I actually print ABS at 260c on my V6. The higher print temp results in a sturdier print.
I havent' seen any difference in print quality at lower vs higher temps. I use part cooling fans for overhangs.
I usually don't print very fast anymore, most prints are 20/40/60 or 20/40/40 for perimeter/internal perimeter/infill.'
Fyi, I tried a copy of a print in my troubleshooting thread at 235c, and the print was brittle, ended up snapping a tab off on accident.

Hey 0110-m-p,

Yep, thank you so much for publishing your design.
The fit was perfect, the only change I had to do was to drill out recesses for the heat break grub screws -- they aren't flush with the heatsink when everything is tightened up.
I'm running into some kind of print quality issue I've been yammering about in the troubleshooting thread though.

FYI, someone recently published solidworks iges and step file models for Chimera and Cyclops.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:681903

Hi
got my new cyclops.
can someone please help me with how and where to connect the extra motor to the rambo voard and what to update in the softeare

thanks

Hi duvdev,

Did you ever get your Cyclops working on your Rambo board? I am trying to set up same now, could use some help ;-P

tia

wkinne

I have cyclops working on a Rambo on a taz 4 printer. What do you need to know?

my stepper for E0 gets hot, E1 would prolly get hot to but I have yet to run it. I have no way to extrude from E1 using the LED screen.

two good places to start, thanks