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The ease of disassembling this set up provides is phenomenal. It is so much easier to disassemble the hot end and effector with it connected to magnets. I highly recommend this set up.

Thank you for this wonderful idea. Magnetic holders it is very cool!

[img]http://cs310930.vk.me/v310930555/a58/wOR9PXo9knU.jpg[/img]

[img]http://cs310930.vk.me/v310930555/a62/B_vNPJNu7bo.jpg[/img]

[img]http://cs310930.vk.me/v310930555/a6c/w4gRXEGfulc.jpg[/img]

[img]http://cs310930.vk.me/v310930555/a94/Zg223lyRUwc.jpg[/img]

prototype made

Looking Good!

I have two 3d printers and both are down waiting on parts from china. Can anyone print a set of parts for the Xnaron system
in return for cash. I would need the effector, the cheapskate Ballends (3) and 12 of the boom ends. If you can help please
PM me.

You could free up some space to make the aluminum effector a bit smaller by rotating the inner hole circle 30 degrees.

- dan

I detect a VCarve Pro or Aspire user...

g.

Funny because my artcam sensor is going off on that one.

mrblade wrote:Thank you for this wonderful idea. Magnetic holders it is very cool!

[img]http://cs310930.vk.me/v310930555/a58/wOR9PXo9knU.jpg[/img]

[img]http://cs310930.vk.me/v310930555/a62/B_vNPJNu7bo.jpg[/img]

[img]http://cs310930.vk.me/v310930555/a6c/w4gRXEGfulc.jpg[/img]

[img]http://cs310930.vk.me/v310930555/a94/Zg223lyRUwc.jpg[/img]

Did you create your own effector model? Or did you modify xnaron's?

Wow MRBLADE that is a thing of beauty!!! Well done! What size tap did you use? Would love a copy of the .stl

I create my own effector model.

[img]http://cs403126.vk.me/v403126555/7d3c/eLC1L2JOYco.jpg[/img]

I use cylindrical tips for D10mm magnets and D10mm carbon tubes.
Screwed M4.

Flateric, the funny thing is that the guy that did most of the work on Artcam left and started Vectric and they produce VCarve Pro and Aspire. They bring Artcam quality to the table without having to pay Artcam prices for it.

g.

I Just posted some pictures of one of my first prints with the new arms and j head, in the what are YOU making section...


Bill

I just wanted to pass along another source for the Neodymium magnets that wasn't ebay.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rare-earth-magnets/=muhxh6

edit: they have crappy linking, for the ball magnets click 'the ultra-high-pull neodymium-iron-boron magnets' section, it has a plate for it's magnet.

Or I'm not used to linking from this site. alt link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#neodymium-iron-boron-magnets

I thought I'd try out a flat aluminum effector plate with the mag arms today. Though close, it makes it within my work volume (-120 through 120mm) without the rod ends touching the 3mm cap screws the ball bearings are sitting on. Here is a shot at Y-120. Now I've got some Z travel back.

Broose wrote:I thought I'd try out a flat aluminum effector plate with the mag arms today.

Though close, it makes it within my work volume (-120 through 120mm) without the rod ends touching the 3mm cap screws the ball bearings are sitting on. Here is a shot at Y-120.

Now I've got some Z travel back.

looks good. I prefer this method over the original design for durability of the aluminum plate against heat.

cambo3d wrote:

Broose wrote:I thought I'd try out a flat aluminum effector plate with the mag arms today.

Though close, it makes it within my work volume (-120 through 120mm) without the rod ends touching the 3mm cap screws the ball bearings are sitting on. Here is a shot at Y-120.

Now I've got some Z travel back.

looks good. I prefer this method over the original design for durability of the aluminum plate against heat.

I have found that heat was not an issue. If you are really concerned you can print it out of abs instead of pla.

mrblade wrote:Thank you for this wonderful idea. Magnetic holders it is very cool!

Looks great! Have you made any prints yet? Any pics of the finished mod and prints you can post?

For those of you who are running this system for your arms, what is the longest time you have run using the JB Weld
without any failures of the Epoxy? This is important now that we have seen some failures using the JB Weld.

I'm skeptical.

I know of at least four people with the Xnaron arms installed without any bonding failures. To me, one bonding failure doesn't mean there's something wrong with the adhesive.

g.

geneb wrote:I'm skeptical.

I know of at least four people with the Xnaron arms installed without any bonding failures. To me, one bonding failure doesn't mean there's something wrong with the adhesive.

g.

Do you know if it is recommend to roughen the ball surface where the epoxy will go?

Question for you guys, when the jb weld was drying, was the socket screw on to or bottom? I put my screws to the top so that as the jb weld was drying the weld slowly spread out over the bearing giving me more bonding surface. no problems here at all....

bplemmons wrote:Question for you guys, when the jb weld was drying, was the socket screw on to or bottom? I put my screws to the top so that as the jb weld was drying the weld slowly spread out over the bearing giving me more bonding surface. no problems here at all....

So you put the magnets in the ends then put the ball on the end to hold it then placed the screw with the epoxy on it on top of the ball.
That sounds like a good procedure but I intend to "roughen" the ball where the screw will go. I intend not too touch them after that for
48 hrs so I know they have cured enough. I know a lot of people used lamps to heat the epoxy but I think it should work fine if they are
left to cure. If I have problems after all of that I will consider what Cambo3D suggested which is the 3M epoxy.

Take screw, drill a deepening and put JB Weld...

I rested the ball in a small socket and balanced the screw on top. I have used pliers on mine to tighten them..