Poor fusion with new E3D v6

[Flightrider]

I just installed a new E3D v6 a few days ago w the .4mm nozzle on my Rostock Max v2.

Running 1.75mm ABS at 228C. I've printed this filament before with the stock nozzle that came with the Max v2. I'm noticing when I've printed a couple of parts, they're came apart easily at the layers. I've printed these exact same parts previously with the .5mm standard hot end with no problems. I'm printing at .25mm layer thickness. I set the config.h settings as recommended and changed the printer settings in Mattercontrol to reflect the .4mm nozzle (as opposed to the .5mm previously).

Any help would be appreciated.

Dave

[IMBoring25]

I'm not trying to insult you here, but, "Set[ting] the config.h settings as recommended," is an odd wording for the process. Just to make sure, did you recompile the firmware and upload it back to the printer after you made your config changes? If your thermistor settings are incorrect you will not be operating at the temperatures you intend, and inadequate temperature is a common reason for ABS delamination.

[Xenocrates]

Did you re-profile your temperatures after the switch? Some thermistors are kinda out there as far as their relation to actual temperatures. if the temp tables are each accurate for a thermistor to within ~2 degrees, and each is off in the opposite direction, that's almost 5 degrees, which can be enough to change how things behave. Most are less accurate to the theoretical temp than that. Also, especially if you're using the hardened steel nozzles, you will have different temps you want to reach even if both are perfectly accurate, due to the different geometry and heat transfer of the different hotends.

[Captain Starfish]

^^ This.

Step one is grab a thermocouple and make sure you're actually getting a hot end at the temperature the Max thinks it's at.

Even then, IMO 228º is way too low for good inter-layer adhesion. I run my ABS prints at 255º and they are rock solid.

[DeltaCon]

228 C is exactly what I use to print, and I have no layerbondingproblems whatsoever. Of course it is a good idea to check the real temp to what the thermistor thinks it is. However I still have not taken my time to check for a not too expensive thermocouple (suggestions welcome!). I read somewhere that the most ideal printing temp is to check at what temp your filament start slipping, and add 10 degrees to that. That way you don't really need to know the exact temp anyway.

In this case I would re-check my slicersettings. I don't know what changes you made to the firmware, but changes in nozzle size and layerheight are specified in your slicer settings, not firmware. I never tried any other layerheight than .2 and that just works in my setup.

[Captain Starfish]

thermocouple with a bonus multimeter attached available all over the place for about $25USD. BangGood, AliExpress, fleaBay, you name it, they all got 'em.

[Jimustanguitar]

thermocouple with a bonus multimeter attached available all over the place for about $25USD. BangGood, AliExpress, fleaBay, you name it, they all got 'em.

Or Harbor Freight.


Definitely tune in your thermistor, definitely do the PID tuning. Those are both critical.

[geneb]

Harbor Freight is kind of a drive if you're in The Netherlands.

g.

[DeltaCon]

Good point Starfish, I ordered a dedicated Thermocouple through bangbuck for less than 17 European bucks...

[IMBoring25]

Firmware changes would be thermistor settings unless the SeeMe hot end thermistor has the same 25C resistance and beta.