Rostock Max curling and adhesion problems

[smurpau]

Hey, I've built a Rostock Max v1 and calibrated it. I'm pretty happy with the surface levelling, but the heated bed only reaches 60 degrees because the power supply SeeMeCNC provided is too weak; so ABS has trouble sticking to it. I'm using 3M "3D printing tape" and hairspray on a glass plate to try to improve that, but it's not a perfect solution as you can see. Very small parts adhere fine with brims, but slightly larger parts either curl up at the corners, or just don't stick at all. The worst case is when retracting - the immediately printed segment doesn't have time to adhere, and when the print head moves, it drags that segment out of place.

I'm thinking of increasing the bed temperature by buying another power supply (12v/24v dedicated or just another PC PSU?), or trying some double sided tape, or a PEI sheet if I can find one somewhere. I've tried ABS/acetone, various glues etc. and nothing works sufficiently. Alternatively, is there some adjustment I can make to the retraction settings to stop segments shifting when the print head moves? A short dwell time or something before moving, perhaps?

[Earthbound]

Do you have a rev3 Onyx heated bed? If so, it won't heat up properly on 12v.

You might try printing on Kapton tape. ABS sticks to it nicely. To help with the curling corners, slow down your print speed.

[Eaglezsoar]

Hey, I've built a Rostock Max v1 and calibrated it. I'm pretty happy with the surface levelling, but the heated bed only reaches 60 degrees because the power supply SeeMeCNC provided is too weak; so ABS has trouble sticking to it. I'm using 3M "3D printing tape" and hairspray on a glass plate to try to improve that, but it's not a perfect solution as you can see. Very small parts adhere fine with brims, but slightly larger parts either curl up at the corners, or just don't stick at all. The worst case is when retracting - the immediately printed segment doesn't have time to adhere, and when the print head moves, it drags that segment out of place.

I'm thinking of increasing the bed temperature by buying another power supply (12v/24v dedicated or just another PC PSU?), or trying some double sided tape, or a PEI sheet if I can find one somewhere. I've tried ABS/acetone, various glues etc. and nothing works sufficiently. Alternatively, is there some adjustment I can make to the retraction settings to stop segments shifting when the print head moves? A short dwell time or something before moving, perhaps?

Welcome to the Forum!
A lot of users who had your problem used a 24V 20A or 30A to power the heated bed. You would also need a 25 or 40 amp DC-DC SSR to control the 24V.
Ebay has the power supplies.
The heating bed output from the Rambo goes to the input of the DC-DC SSR and the output of the SSR would pass the 24V to the heated bed. You need to get
your bed to at least 90C and some use even higher temperatures. PEI etc would not help until you get those heat bed temperatures up.
In reference to the retraction settings, you can experiment with the retraction length and speed. I have not heard of the dwell time feature but I am not the
brightest bulb in the shop so perhaps others have an idea.

[add1ct3dd]

If it's a rev3 bed, I'd personally upgrade it to a newer one, then your V3 issues go away :]

Cheaper/easier than other ideas imo.

[Eaglezsoar]

If it's a rev3 bed, I'd personally upgrade it to a newer one, then your V3 issues go away :]

Cheaper/easier than other ideas imo.

I agree that a lot of the issues would go away but the heating times for the bed are still going to be very long.
Many users have upgraded the heated bed to operate from 24 Volts for that reason, it takes the bed to long to heat up and
it still won't exceed a variable high temperature. That temperature cannot be determined in advance because each printer
will be different. I think we agree on most everything but I still like to run the bed from 24 volts.

[Mac The Knife]

a Rostock Max V1? Do you mean V2?

[Eaglezsoar]

a Rostock Max V1? Do you mean V2?

From the picture he posted - http://i.imgur.com/Ytbvxm2.jpg
It looks like a V1.

[Mac The Knife]

If he just built it, then it must have been collecting dust somewhere.

[Mac The Knife]

And looking at the prints, it looks like the Z height is set to high. those extrusions look fairly round, not flattened.

[Eaglezsoar]

And looking at the prints, it looks like the Z height is set to high. those extrusions look fairly round, not flattened.

I agree, they look pretty round to me also. Good Catch!

[smurpau]

Welcome to the Forum!
A lot of users who had your problem used a 24V 20A or 30A to power the heated bed. You would also need a 25 or 40 amp DC-DC SSR to control the 24V.
Ebay has the power supplies.
The heating bed output from the Rambo goes to the input of the DC-DC SSR and the output of the SSR would pass the 24V to the heated bed. You need to get
your bed to at least 90C and some use even higher temperatures. PEI etc would not help until you get those heat bed temperatures up.
In reference to the retraction settings, you can experiment with the retraction length and speed. I have not heard of the dwell time feature but I am not the
brightest bulb in the shop so perhaps others have an idea.

That's pretty disappointing to be honest. The printer was advertised as running the heated bed at up to 120 degrees Celsius. Work has just ordered an Orion, so I think I'm just going to stick to printing PLA on that. Sigh.

[Eaglezsoar]

Welcome to the Forum!
A lot of users who had your problem used a 24V 20A or 30A to power the heated bed. You would also need a 25 or 40 amp DC-DC SSR to control the 24V.
Ebay has the power supplies.
The heating bed output from the Rambo goes to the input of the DC-DC SSR and the output of the SSR would pass the 24V to the heated bed. You need to get
your bed to at least 90C and some use even higher temperatures. PEI etc would not help until you get those heat bed temperatures up.
In reference to the retraction settings, you can experiment with the retraction length and speed. I have not heard of the dwell time feature but I am not the
brightest bulb in the shop so perhaps others have an idea.

That's pretty disappointing to be honest. The printer was advertised as running the heated bed at up to 120 degrees Celsius. Work has just ordered an Orion, so I think I'm just going to stick to printing PLA on that. Sigh.

I have the Orion also and I run the hotbed at 95C consistently for ABS. It takes a while to get there but it does get to that temperature and holds it well. This is with the stock power supply. I use the 24 volt on my Max.