Hi all, I was looking at the E3D hot end and see that it has a through hole (about 2.5mm D) and a blind hole (2mm D). Their website says to use the blind hole for the thermistor but I've seen a few photos here that folks are using the larger through hole. I want to wrap up my E3D installation but not sure which hole to use. What is the through hole there for? Should I just carefully red rill the blind hole to 2.5mm so I can tap it M3 for my thermistor?
thanks,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
mhackney wrote:Hi all, I was looking at the E3D hot end and see that it has a through hole (about 2.5mm D) and a blind hole (2mm D). Their website says to use the blind hole for the thermistor but I've seen a few photos here that folks are using the larger through hole. I want to wrap up my E3D installation but not sure which hole to use. What is the through hole there for? Should I just carefully red rill the blind hole to 2.5mm so I can tap it M3 for my thermistor?
thanks,
Michael
i use the hole that is next to the nozzle (the blind hole). i think if you put it at the through hole (on top of the 40W heat cartridge and one side is open) your nozzle temps would be inaccurate?
Last edited by bubbasnow on Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I haven't drilled yet but the blind hole is 2mm (as per the data sheet) and an M3 thread requires a 2.5mm tap drill. Perhaps the aluminum is soft enough that it can be tapped without drilling?
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
mhackney wrote:I haven't drilled yet but the blind hole is 2mm (as per the data sheet) and an M3 thread requires a 2.5mm tap drill. Perhaps the aluminum is soft enough that it can be tapped without drilling?
aarrrggg
no no no don't tap aluminum dry.
Use some tap magic for aluminum or wd-40 http://www.mcmaster.com/#1413k42/=qfwto8
has a nice cinamon smell to
really works wonders tapping and machining aluminium I love it.
~*Brian V.
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+1 Brian. I tap literally 1000s of 2-56, 4-40 and 8-32 holes a month in brass and aluminum. In a pinch you can use a liquid soap like Dawn but tap magic is my go-to tapping fluid.
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Hey guys, you seriously tapped this small hole with a M3-.5 tap without pre-drilling to 2.5mm? It doesn't even seem deep enough to get enough threads on a regular taper tap. I do have bottoming and plug taps too but none of them will start in that little blind hole. Are you sure you are not tapping the larger hole in the bottom left corner?
mhackney wrote:Hey guys, you seriously tapped this small hole with a M3-.5 tap without pre-drilling to 2.5mm? It doesn't even seem deep enough to get enough threads on a regular taper tap. I do have bottoming and plug taps too but none of them will start in that little blind hole. Are you sure you are not tapping the larger hole in the bottom left corner?
Ok, the small blind hole below the thermistor in my photo is the hole recommended for the thermistor. I have no idea what the larger through hole is supposed to be for.
How about the rest of you? Did you tap the through hole in the lower corner?
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
mhackney wrote:Ok, the small blind hole below the thermistor in my photo is the hole recommended for the thermistor. I have no idea what the larger through hole is supposed to be for.
How about the rest of you? Did you tap the through hole in the lower corner?
I believe that the large hole is there to heat your Salami.
But it works good for the thread in thermistor also.
mhackney wrote:Ok, the small blind hole below the thermistor in my photo is the hole recommended for the thermistor. I have no idea what the larger through hole is supposed to be for.
How about the rest of you? Did you tap the through hole in the lower corner?
Yea your block is different than mine...sorry for the confusion.
The through hole in the heater block is for the Honeywell axial thermistor like what the buda uses. It's not recommended by E3d because they think it will give an inn accurate temp because of its placement, right next to the heater block.
Eagle - exactly! I am concerned that there is not a lot of metal between the outside and the filament/nozzle passage to drill out. It could be done and I certainly have the equipment/skill to do it, but it would be tricky.
I'm just going to tap the larger through hole and use thermal paste to "plug" the end of the thermistor. I can then test the temp with my thermocouple and make a calibration curve if need be. That seems less problematic and I can always move it later if it's an issue.
Thanks all.
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
mhackney wrote:Hey guys, you seriously tapped this small hole with a M3-.5 tap without pre-drilling to 2.5mm? It doesn't even seem deep enough to get enough threads on a regular taper tap. I do have bottoming and plug taps too but none of them will start in that little blind hole. Are you sure you are not tapping the larger hole in the bottom left corner?
I think depending on your version, there are different holes in these heater blocks. Probably should PM Sanjay and get some answers.
-"Simpler is better, except when complicated looks really cool."
-"As soon as you make something fool proof...along comes an idiot."
-"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." ~Thomas Edison