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Thanks Eagle! I usually take pretty good notes about changes, but I get a brainstorm and start fiddling and forget to write it down. I really wish I knew exactly what fixed it so I could maybe contribute a bit to others that have issue. The forum has been a big help to me in figuring things out and ...

I went through the linked threads and saw nothing there that I have not already tried or checked. All my settings in EEPROM and software are correct (20 tooth and steps). The only thing off was the print area. I took a few days away from printing and decided last night to just set everything to ...

Adjusting rod length is the way to go I guess. I'm getting pretty close the 25mm target. Another adjustment or two and I think it will be darn near perfect. *edit After doing some reading it looks like the same results can be had by adjusting the Printable Radius. Mine is set to 138 (not sure where ...

I was having the same issue with the steps. Changing the steps fixed the height, but now the X, and Y are too small. I used the calibration cube that was in mattercontrol, it should be 20x20x10mm. The Height is 10.08 , that is great, but now the X and Y are 18.22, and 18.26. The arms length is 269 ...

RobertPhoenix wrote:I ran my test piece after changing steps to 80. Now I am amazed at how accurate the piece is

Height 25.01, 25.11
Sides 25.18, 24.97, 24.92, 24.99

That's awesome! Wish I could find out where my settings are off. Has to be maybe bed size or printable size? What are yours? Maybe I can compare.

Polygonhell wrote:What's your arm length set to in the firmware?
Should be 269mm unless you have some sort of DIY arms.

Yep it is set to 269mm. I have attached my EPROM file if that helps.

Setting the Steps to 80 and resetting Z height and changing firmware to match the new number results in a new cube about 23.75mm square at the base. It's still printing, but the height will probably be too high as the rest of my runs. Maybe bad slicer settings and firmware settings? *print finished ...

That makes sense for your machine having an 80 nominal. 92.650 steps/mm / 80 steps/mm = 1.158. 29 mm / 25 mm = 1.16. 16% too many steps, 16% too-tall parts. Not looking like a coincidence. Solid math there. So I set the Steps to 80 and tried to run the cube print again. The print starts about 3 ...

If the height is incorrect, you have a bad setting in the firmware, most likely Steps per mm for X/Y/Z. That setting needs to be calculated from the pulley tooth count and the fact you are using GT2 belts. The correct setting for an Early V1 Max is 53.333333 steps per mm The correct setting for ...

They seem consistent, but not accurate. My 25mmx25mm hollow cube is coming out about 26.4mm wide on all sides, but almost 29mm height.

*edit
Here is the cube file if that matters
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5011

I am just now getting my calibration dialed in and printed a few calibration cubes. I was looking for problems such as warping, bridges, layer adhesion and such but never really looked at the overall cubes. Once I measured them they are about 2mm too tall. I have a layer height of .2mm So where am I ...

I'm pretty much having the exact same issue, but it happens near the end of the print job. It just reaches the end of the countdown timer and just stops. I lose complete control of the printer. I have .91 firmware and use Repetier host and Slic3r

on your lcd, sroll down and find what your steps per mm is set at for the extruder...... Note: The extruder retracts on travel fine Here are the stats from the LCD that I though might be relevant: Steps per mm: 92.4 Start FR: 45 Max FR: 100 Accel: 6500 Advance Lin: 0 DT/PID: 31.36 PID I: 2.18 PID D ...

Without going into a very long story, after about a year of messing with my printer I have finally been able to print something. I calibrated per the instructions and ran some additional calibration tips I found on the net specific to the Rostock. I ran the small cube test and had pretty good ...

Here is the a bigger slice of the gcode ; generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC3 on 2014-04-20 at 17:52:23 ; layer_height = .2 ; perimeters = 1 ; top_solid_layers = 5 ; bottom_solid_layers = 5 ; fill_density = .2 ; perimeter_speed = 20 ; infill_speed = 20 ; travel_speed = 200 ; nozzle_diameter = .5 ; filament ...

If you move the head by typing G1 Z0.2 F3000 How far above the bed does it look to be, if it's correctly calibrated it should be 0.2mm If that is correct, look at the first few lines of the sliced object, and see what it is setting the Z height to, if it's much larger than you expect, you have a ...

I would think that just setting the Z height via the LCD should work fine. You should not have to do a complete calibration. Eagle, I guess my question is how does the LCD Z height calibration effect the 4 script calibration? Something isn't working for me since the 4 script calibration looks fine ...

Rostock Max .91 firmware 135c hotend 90c bed I have run through the calibration steps multiple times and feel I have it dialed in. This includes the 4 scripts to level the bed/towers. After each adjustment to EEPROM Horizontal Radius I disconnect in Repetier as well as unplug USB. Plug everything up ...

It should be a 100k thermistor

So I changed the pins.h to use port 1. My readings you may ask? 256c at room temp. Ummmmm....no. Upload again and reset board. Ummm.... 256c again. Welp this is getting worse by the day. Decide to try for port 3. Fire it up and I now have identical readings as my bed. On port 0 I was about 2-3c off ...

Wish I could say the problem was resolved, but I tried another test with holding the thermistor into the hold firmly and running the temp up to about 160 then 180, 190 and then 195. It stopped again at about 190 and refused to report a temp higher than that. I measured with my probe and it seemed to ...

ok, that isn't horrible. So I suspect your wiring and/or mounting of the thermistor. It seems the thermistor itself is in the ballpark. Well this was the bare thermistor in water and the wiring is completely new for the second time. I think wiring is fine now that I know what NOT to do when ...

Might give that a try. I did the water test and there is a 5 degree variance in temp from the thermistor and my probe.

Lol...yep this has been nothing but hell, but I kinda enjoy it? Live and learn I guess. I was actually looking at tapping a hole in the head for a set screw to hold the thermistor, but I don't think I have the skill for that and I'm not sure how viable that solution would be. Do you have any info ...

It is mounted in the head with Ultra Copper RTV. I have the E3D head (I think you have one or one very similar). I was very careful to not get it on the glass bulb. The leads were shielded with clearish plastic protectors. I even put a tiny bit of RTV between the shielded leads at the bead to ensure ...