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Problem solved, one of my carriages was gripping the t-slots too tight, just loosened it a little and tightened the drive pulley. Thank you both for your help

No matter how much I fine-tune the endstop screws, prints are continually turning out like this. It seems that the arms start out moving parallel and get gradually worse as the print goes on. Any input or tips would be greatly appreciated as I'm new to 3D printing and still have a massive amount to ...

So it looks like I need to take my hot end apart to check the PEEK. As far as calibration goes, is the layer shift issue something I should address with z-height/endstop tuning or is it a software settings problem? And is there any reason these problems don't show up until half way through the print ...

Nylon 618 actually

Im printing around 235C

The name of the RTV is Permatex Ultra Copper sensor-safe High Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker.

It seems to coming from the gaps between the nozzle and the outer rim of the hotend.

When I'm printing something the hot end will cause the RTV or something else to heat and turn into a gooey black substance. This substance gets in my prints which then interferes with the nozzle which causes failures. Has anyone else had this problem or know a way to fix it?

I can manually feed or retract filament while moving the gears, but when I press extrude or retract the gears do not turn at all. Do I have to change the direction of the motor in the firmware or is this a mechanical problem?

[img]https://mail-attachment.googleuserconte ... TMCdclW19o[/img]

In step 22 of assembly, it says to cut a green and black wire from the 22-pin plug on the power supply, but I have a 20+4-pin plug coming out of mine, not a 22-pin. And during the same step it says to find the 6-pin connectors with three black and three yellow wires, I cannot seem to find this ...