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At this point It might not be unreasonable to think your glass is the defective part, so it is never truly flat especially when heated...

Don't do it if the instructions don't say to!

Gdot, First of all congrats on getting a better print than when you started, that's good news. I'm sure you've done both of these things, but just to be sure, have you rotated your bed, including the insulator and heating element to see if that changes anything? How about the bed mounts themselves ...

If you're just printing PLA you should try printing without the heated bed to see if it's any better

Also yes I have printed cubes, and I had to increase my steps/mm to get the right z-height and I'm adjusting the DR length as we speak. I am ~.1mm larger on the y axis than on the x, so I'm going to also try to fix that. I am curious. What is your goal? If you're just playing around to see who can ...

Printed the 50 mm test piece and came up with 49.5 to 49.55 mm dimensions. So I dont consider 7 factor calibration to be the solution. Gdot, You're aiming for the lowest deviation, but I don't think you should worry about the numbers as much as what the print looks like. The big issue here is ...

Well I'm afraid there has been no change for me. After installing the new arms and effector plate, I cleared the EEPROM and and reflashed. I then ran G29 multiple times followed up by the Octoprint delata calibration plug in. It can only get me to .17 deviation. When running the gcode for the same ...

Toddwagner Thank you very much for taking the time to respond with pictures and settings. I will compare tonight after work (I should be working anyway... :D ). As far as fan shoruds, I really like these http://repables.com/r/832/ . They fit right on the little tabs at the 3 locations on the bottom ...

Gdot, I'll attach photos of my complete EEPROM, so you can check everything out. You'll notice that I have the rod length about 7mm longer than what my rods from TrickLaser are measured at. That is because after running the delta wizard, it suggested I change the number to the 307.01 in the EEPROM ...

UPDATE TIME: I got in the effector plate and carbon fiber arms from trick laser today and installed them on my printer. Once it was all assembled I ran the delta calibration wizard twice through, set up a full bed print and pressed start. One hour of impatient waiting later, a full bed completely ...

Ok so I just figured I would add an update on my quest for a level first layer for anyone who is reading this looking for a solution. I did get a level print on my entire bed, but the way I did it was incorrect in itself. I adjusted my steps/mm and calibrated using the delta wizard every .1 step ...

So I've been working on getting my printer to print flat on the whole bed, and finally accomplished that. Today I printed two 50x50x50mm cubes and measured them and averaged the measurements... In the X-axis I was .25mm over, on the Y-axis I was .53mm over and on the Z-axis I was 1.17mm over. Not ...

How big of an issue is it really if your first layer doesn't completely fuse?

Argh!!! I finally got my printer to print an excellent first layer with PLA, so I switched over to ABS to try some prints with that on the whole bed... It didn't turn out well... I cleaned and reapplied glue to the plate and I'm heating up to try it one more time. I'm not sure if it is actually ...

How did the dimensioning go for you by the way?

Ughhhh!!! So I took your advice and did the same calibration technique, and it worked great as far as flat prints are concerned. Now that I'm printing flat I'm having problems with the individual strings not fusing together on the plate, giving me ~.3mm gaps between the lines... Time to try to fix ...

Each iteration I would load the proper x/ Y coordinates into the firmware and would run G29 with those probe points. First off, congrats on the success! Secondly, I followed most of what you were saying, but what X/Y coordinates are you loading, I don't recall ever having to edit X/Y coordinates in ...

Excellent! I have one tip for you that worked for me. When you're calibrating your printer and writing down the values, you're plugging those into the deviation calculator. What I did instead, even though it does take considerably more time, is bump up my steps/mm and run the probing wizard, take ...

Ok so I ran the code. Going towards the X-tower starting at center: -.01, -.01, .00, .02, .04, .04, .03, -.01. Then going away from the X towards center: .12, .11, .09, .06, .03, .01, .01.

Gdot wrote:OK, just make a file with the extension .gcode. Then just paste the code into it. Load that up in your software, right now for me that's MatterControl, then run the program and watch what offsets it prints out to the terminal.

Perfect. I'll keep you posted

Thanks for the code! I'll try to run it in a bit when I finish my current print, although I do have to figure out how to send all that code information to my printer :? :? :? As far as building it yourself, I think everyone who has had this problem has built their printer, and no one has purchased a ...

Could you post that gcode you're running so I can try it on my rostock as well? Also just out of curiosity, did you build your machine yourself or did you purchase a kit?

I'm not entirely sure if this is a logical solution to our problem but bear with me here: Step 1: do the calibration with the steps per minute until you get a proper first layer print. Step 2: print the 50mm box with the stock settings as far as extrusion and layer height are concerned. Step 3 ...

ALSO!!! This should help in the journey to dimensional accuracy! http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... l+accuracy

*Sorry to piggyback off your post here, but I think this would be helpful to other people who may be having similar issues as us* I agree that the nozzle is too high on that side, but now my issue is how to fix that without lowering the nozzle on the opposite side as well (causing my initial problem ...