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morgandc, I had the same problem. Following geneb's advice earlier in the thread, I disconnected and reconnected the printer to OctoPrint (using the connection panel in the upper left of OctoPrint) and after that it worked fine.

WOW! After getting the new firmware & OctoPrint plugin working, you can see the great results in the pictures. It's a single-layer 270 mm diameter disk. I still have a few slightly high and low spots, but overall DC42's least-squared calibration routine has made a MASSIVE improvement over what I had ...

Duh! lol

That did it. Thanks!

geneb: disconnect and reconnect what? I've shut down and restarted both OctoPrint and the Rostock itself several times with no change. Do you mean to disconnect the RasPi from the Rambo and reconnect? Thanks!

Ditto rocky00717. Using the new master firmware and the plugin, I also get the NOT a SeeMeCNC printer message and the "Begin Delta Calibration" button is grayed out.

What material and temps are you using? I was having pretty bad stringing problems with the PLA I got from SeeMeCNC with my printer. I was using mhackney's default settings for KISSlicer at first and followed pretty much all the recommendations I could find online (increase retract length/speed ...

Yep, I've been cleaning the glass with a blue scrub pad and dish soap whenever I remove it, and using isopropyl on a microfiber cloth between prints with no problems thus far. I think in this case I just had too much of my print too far from the proven level area of the bed. Things have been fine so ...

So this happened last night. IMG_2479.jpg I've been printing on bare glass with no problems up till now, but I guess it's time to look at installing that FabLam I bought. I was printing a geared cube from Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213946/#files). The individual gears and center ...

cloneit3d: I'm using the EEPROM Repetier Editor Plugin in OctoPrint to make changes to the EEPROM settings without having to reflash.

mhackney, my dissertation is on the interaction of ultrasonic Lamb waves with fatigue cracks in aluminum plates--related to structural health monitoring of aerospace vehicles. I'm supposed to be done by the end of the year, but many days I swear I'll never make it; feels like 90% done and 90% left ...

After flipping all my bed supports, bending my bed clamps, and installing the dev firmware things have improved, but I still can't get a truly level bed out to max print radius (see photos). The areas between the YZ and XY towers are still high (more so on the YZ side) and I have low spots on the XZ ...

Actually, now that I've removed all the washers, the bed clamps still don't hold the glass firmly in place--might be because they've now developed a curve from sitting up over the higher edge of the glass the past 2 weeks. Hopefully a little manual bending will fix that, if not I guess I'll hit ...

I also just noticed that all six of my bed supports are upside down (I installed them the direction shown in the original picture in the Dozuki--didn't notice the text instruction stating the picture was incorrect). Since that's now been fixed in the instructions, I went ahead and flipped mine all ...

I haven't had much time to work on my printer this week, but I just noticed there were changes posted earlier today to the dev branch of the firmware on GitHub. The changes specifically deal with/affect calibration, including configuration.h parameters DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD, CARRIAGE_HORIZONTAL_OFFSET ...

Okay, after another 4-5 hours, I'm still stuck in almost the same place. Based on the Reprap forums thread referenced above, I adjusted my manual calibration points to 2/3 of the build radius (assuming 140 mm max build radius, that gives 93 1/3 mm). I repeated my manual calibration and horizontal ...

I did check for tower lean--as near as I can tell using a precision steel ruler, they're all within 1 mm bottom to top (though there's probably a better way to measure it). I'll go check out the post in the reprap forum. Thanks!

Today I attempted a manual calibration using a feeler gage (as described in one of the appendices of the V2 User Manual) to adjust the end stops and manually edited the horizontal radius value in the EEPROM. I also added a few check points mid-way between each tower at the same radius (135 mm). The ...

I started asking about this in the Facebook group a few days ago, but now that my forum account is activated I'm moving the discussion here. I finished my V3 on Monday and have been trying to work through problems with getting a level bed. I've run through all the calibration/setup advice in ...