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Use a 3pin-to-2wire connector on the cable side, that way you can plug whatever fan in on the hot end platform. Then use a case fan splitter cable to plug your fans into the power. this makes it braindead simple to swap out fans or add more later. Cut the Molex connector off something like this to ...

Problem with the model? Try repair/remesh in MeshMixer and/or 123D.

The problem of not getting the head close enough to the base in MatterControl print leveling is discussed in the comments here: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/troubleshooting-for-mattercontrol-print-leveling If your firmware allowed it, then "Allow Negative Z" would allow you to move lower ...

What filament are you using? I had similar problems with Colorfabb XT and couldn't solve it. Other filaments I have used didn't have the issue.
If you just extrude using the controls on MatterControl (not printing) does it come out smooth or are there little blobs occasionally?

You can find links to connectors I used in my build thread, but check out https://mainframecustom.com.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 293#p90670

I've had this problem. Sometimes, after restarting your mac, the usb port the printer is plugged into gets mapped to a different com port. Edit the printer profile and select the available port, (not at my mac right now so I can't give sample port path). I get this 2 out of 3 times I restart my mac ...

Resurrecting thread... I am having a similar issue with Colorfabb XT White with an E3dV6 head. Lower temps (<240C) result in weak, delaminating prints that easily crunch. Higher temps (>255C) are strong, don't delaminate, but are smooshy and bloby (the technical term). Somewhere in the middle (245 ...

Agreed. Also, increasing the travel speed for non print moves to something greater than 150mm/sec seems to help a lot.

Agreed. MaterControl does not do spiral vase very well. Even on a simple cylinder it jumps around at random to start new layers.

I used Sorbothane sheet on the mount for the extruder. Can't hear it over the fans. See here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 293#p90669

Genius. I was thinking of a way to mount square stock aluminum so it goes up the back of the Z tower with stand offs that hook over the tower mount screws, but this is way cleaner and easier.

Main Frame Customs (in Los Angeles) has just about everything you'd need for custom cable management. https://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/ And Lutr0 from there has a youTube channel that will show you how to do any of it: https://www.youtube.com/user/lutro0 ModDIY also has ...

So fess up, why are you SO sure that the heatshrink goes on first? :D Let's just say that some of the connectors you see in the pics may not be the first, or even the second ones I put on there. I think the connector on the hotend wiring went on once, realized I'd mixed up the pins (see note about ...

So again, thanks to the folks at SeeMeCnc. Awesome kit, phenomenal customer support.
Thanks to geneb for great manuals.
And thanks to all of you on the forum for answering all my questions before I asked them. I only had to search this forum.

After tweaking the infill overlap and playing with the myriad of sliders, checkboxes, and tabs in MatterControl I went ahead and printed the layer fan shroud. Dang! I was impressed. [img]http://pukaranch.com/rostock/_MG_7429.jpg[/img] No really, check it out. No ringing, no zits, no shifting layers ...

As much fun as I had doing it in the wrong order, getting the B cable for the LCD backward, installing the effector plate upside down and having to flip it, there are a few other take aways from this build: -Don't do the full cable management/sheathing thing unless you are truly OCD or have ...

And here we see that fine E3D V6 mount all installed and looking quite cool. 6 pin PCI-E connector and pins from mainframecustom.com https://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/connectors/6pin-pci-e-male-connector/ 3 pin fan connector surgically removed from an extension cable and grafted in ...

Which brings us to the top end. There. No kapton tape was harmed in the making of this printer. [img]http://pukaranch.com/rostock/_MG_7380.jpg[/img] Since there is no dampener to fit the extruder mount, I replaced one of the spacers with two strips of 1/8in Sorbothane. Each piece is sandwiched ...

Let us pause for a moment to admire the nearly indecent beauty of the E3D V6 mount from 713maker.com.
Look at it. Looook aaat iiiit.
It even matches my color scheme.
[img]http://pukaranch.com/rostock/_MG_7096.jpg[/img]

Now that we have the dirty work of assembling the base behind up, let's talk motors. [img]http://pukaranch.com/rostock/_MG_7376.jpg[/img] I switched out all four motors with these from sparkfun.com https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10846 400 step/rev goodness. Necessary? No. Fun? Yes. Downside, the ...

And the Rambo, done. Not quite visible here is the 14 gauge high temp silicone wrapped wire feeding the heated bed. No burnt screw connectors for me, thank you.
[img]http://pukaranch.com/rostock/_MG_7378.jpg[/img]

The careful observer may have noticed the Rambo board being held in place with blue painters tape while I mocked up the wiring. Never fear, here's how that went together... The fan was upgraded to a Fractal Design Silent Series R2 FD-FAN-SSR2-40 40mm, (also not poop brown). Don't get the R3 version ...

Having read the manual 3 different ways from Sunday, I wound up building in modules, rather than strictly in order. Here for your enjoyment, printer guts: [img]http://pukaranch.com/rostock/_MG_7115.jpg[/img] [img]http://pukaranch.com/rostock/_MG_7116.jpg[/img] To keep the layout a bit cleaner I ran ...

So now what are we going to need? https://youtu.be/k9HWGyp2p3U?t=16s You betcha! Here we have some sexy 14 gauge, silicone wrapped overkill. The fan is a Fractal Design Silent Series R2 FD-FAN-SSR2-60 60mm, pushing all of the same 20cfm as the included fan for a mere 17db. Oh, and it isn't baby poop ...

Alternate way to mount the power supply. First, put the screws to mount the power supply into the base. Then tape them in place with blue painters tape. Next, punch your screwdriver through the tape into the head of the screw so you can find it later. (Fourth screw shown without tape so you can see ...