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Having a .25 J-Head (not a clone! :) ) that I'm going to be pressing into service shortly, what speed are you printing at? g. itm im priting with just 50mm/s, but im in calibration process after rebuilding some parts of my printer. using 1 nozzle of the kraken right now (e3d-v6) damn, just clocked ...

Im printing with a 0.25mm Nozzle, a layer height of 0.1mm, extrusion width of 0.38mm and the stock bowden setup (EZStruder). the prints are good, but im at the absolut "minimum" the EZStruder can handle. Do you think i could go even slower with the extrusion speed with a geared extruder like greg's ...

The washer supplied with my JohnSL-Set are pretty thick. I the FSR-holder of mhackney. When i use a FSR between two washer, the feet of my bed would not been in the holder anymore. And i think the sensitivity would suffer in the case i just put one above or under the fsr? BTW i think the cable for ...

Here is my config.g for my Rostock. I am using the diamond head, and TL arms which are stock lenght. You will need to uncomment the stock hotend tool commands. As well comment out the Duet/Duex4 tools I have set up for my three extruders. This originally was a config.g by geneb. Dan THX!! :lol ...

It is ill advised to drive the heated bed directly from the Duet - use an SSR (an appropriate SSR as I've written about here). If you don't need the horsepower for the bed, would it make sense to use the heated bed output for the hotend then? Might as well use the more substantial FET and connector ...

try a different cable ^^
i was working with a defective usb cable in university once...

has anyone uploaded an SD-Image for a stock rostock v2 yet?

In the case of a failing controller the pin goes high imp mode. for that case there is R3 (in the picture) which causes the mosfet to "shut off" for other failure cases you really need to cook the mosfet with 260 amp. im using this with 12v, so im fine. with 24v you should use a fuse to protect your ...

mine is working with a mosfet.

cheaper and cooler than a ssr

Answer from think3dprint: Hi Gerhard If the 4 rails on your PSU are independent of each other and you are not supposed to connect them together then I think it would be wiser to use the big single rail PSU instead. That way you can be sure there is no risk of voltage differences between the Duet and ...

does anyone know this? can i use 2 different powerlines of my ATX PSU for the Duet and the Duex? the PSU has 4 x 12V/23A and i would like to split the load. or do you think a PSU with 1 x 12V/60A is necessary/recommended? (i dont want to use a 24v) i could find any answer to that in the net and i ...

this is really better to read

im looking forward to your blog

i can recommend this articel when it goes to fonds
http://www.awaionline.com/2011/10/the-b ... and-email/

oh btw you really should use another typo, that one is hard to read

thank you very much ^^

ill look there every day from now on XD

Ok, wow there is so much information in your Posts... and it is very hard wich is the newest of them (different threads). I want to do some massive Upgrades next Year, like FSR, smoothieboard and multiextrusion (if possible with watercooling). I like the idea be able to print different materials in ...

i did

wow thanks XD

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but now it sets my Z max lenght to 708.975 after the first bed measuring :-/

so i should try z-probe start heigh : 310mm?

"I had similar problem when Max. z-probe - bed dist was set too low. It should be maximum distance (more then Z max)." how did you exactly do to solve this problem? sorry, english is not my mother language and the names for the parameter in the programm are not well enough described for me. z-probe ...

no luck with it @RollieRowland?

Damn, cant get it to work... -.- -clean eeprom -flash repetier -build diameter: 280 diagonal rod:269 -z-minimum type: z-probe -pause time com: 1500 -rest default -test zprobe = working -hit calibrate it goes down until the probe touches the bed, then it goes up again and stops right before the end ...