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Hello, Have a Max V2 for over two years, great machine. I'm having to rescale prints from 1.0 to 1.063 in both X & Y directions to get print close to .stl model in size. What can I do to correct for this condition to eliminate rescaling? Z dimensions are within a few thou. I'll re-flash the firmware ...

Hello, Been using my Max V2 for two years now with no issues. The last few times I've printed a job the there is a 10 to 15 hesitation for the 3 stepper motors to send the hot end down to the bed. To describe better, when temps are reached, machine homes all three towers and then pauses for a while ...

Xenocrates,
First, thanks for the reply. So I modify the Configuration.h file, but the next question is can I upload this file (via Arduino software) by itself to the Rambo without going thru the entire erasing of the Eeprom and having to do a complete calibration over again?

C.Lepage

Hello, I've been using an E3D-V6 hot end on my Rostock Max V2. It's time that I need to change the correct configuration file to allow the printer to reach 300°C and in addition, I need to find a way to correct X, Y, and Z calibration to get my prints closer to nominal values, for instance a 1" cube ...

Hello, I have an application where I wish to print a shell and somewhere while printing the shell perimeter, have the printer (Rostock V2) stop move out if the way and then I can drop another part inside, then return to where it left off and finish the shell (container). Can anyone help with sample ...

Weasel314,
Sure enough, clip bottom of model was set to 2mm. I must have done that sometime ago without understanding the implications.

Thank your help!
Cris

Hello, I've been printing for 14 months now and really enjoy the experience. I have one problem that started several months ago that is puzzling. If I were to print a 1" hollow cube with .125 thick walls, the cube will be approx 1" in both X and Y axis (minus slight shrinkage from cooling), but the ...

Hello,
No, have not tried a smaller layer height (.2mm), been sticking to approx 80% of nozzle diameter. I do have issues with other dimensions (x & y) coming out on the small side, didn't know if it was from plastic shrinking as it cooled.

Thanks,
Cris

Hello, So I'm trying to print a simple round bushing out of silver pla. I'm using my Rostock V2 equipped with an E3D V6 hot end sporting a .4mm brass nozzle. Print temps are 200C hot end and 75C heated bed. The over all length is supposed to be 1" nominal, but the actual print fell .075" short. My ...

Tincho85,
Yes, that was the problem, must have checked that option by mistake.

Thanks,
Cris

Hello, This is a first for me: I'm trying to print a small cylinder shaped part appox. 1" tall and 5/16" in diameter. After the second layer, the hot end lifts and shifts to the right and waits for 30 seconds or so, then returns to print one of two more layers before pausing again in the same manner ...

Teoman, Thank you !! I took the p/s and Rambo out, found the small fuse behind the main power connector to be blown. Swapped little fuses, and unit powered up. Now to get a fuse. Wonder if SeeMeCnc stocks them. I'd like to find something locally that would work, not sure if I want to solder in such ...

Hello, Tonight after making a print, I was changing out nozzles (controller was one, and hot end cooling) when the LCD went powered down and all the led's one the Rambo turned off. There was no fan noise, not even coming from the 750 watt power supply. When I turned of the rocker switch, the cooling ...

Thanks, I'll have a look, funny thing is the two stl files that exhibited that sort of behavior were downloaded from the net (I was wanting to have an indicator/pen holder). After I posted this issue here, I went back and printed a 20mm cube, and there was no stopping between layers. I'm going to ...

Okay, so I put my original Rostock hot end on after trying the new e3d V6 unit because I needed to print a few parts for work out of pla. Upon putting the original head back on and getting all trammed in, I was able to make nice prints as before. I now have a crazy problem where after printing ...

thank you for answering:
I think the same thing, a fluke. I'm being extra careful when starting the first print after doing a Z axis reset, life goes on...

Cris

Hello, I've experienced two Z axis crashes in the last week, I'm guessing I have some electrical issue, not sure. I've also upgrade to the latest firmware. So when I calibrate Z height I follow this procedure using the lcd panel control: Calibrate Z height Home axis Jog hot end down to hot plate and ...

Thank you all for replying, perhaps I was a bit tired after a 16 hour day and didn't word my question properly, so I'll explain the Mattercontrol issue: Under "options" one can access "EEprom Settings" and enter values required, such as Ext1 PID values, etc., that is what I was referring to, your ...

Hello, I just upgraded my Mattercontrol to operate my Rostock Max V2. Of course you have to upgrade the firmware and go thru all the calibration steps. Well now my printer when going from home position to the hot bed is momentarily stopping and then it heads on down, it addition, the stepper motor ...

Thank you!

Hello,
Just upgraded hot end to E3D V6 all metal unit. While trying to print nylon, I could not set the hot end above 240°C using the led panel controls. Is there a setting I need to change in Mattercontrol that would be uploaded to EEProm?

Thanks,
Cris

I was thinking the same thing. On the other hand, I'vr run 4,200 meters thru the printer with no issues till now. I did check the hot end to see if it was responsive to thermistor readings and all was good. I'm guessing that there was a loss of reading from thermistor to controller which caused ...

Hello, Last night I was printing a rectangular part and at some point the hot ends peek insulator gave up. I wasn't in the room when it happened, but the end result was not being able to use my Rostock until parts arrive. I can't figure out what happened but the lower threaded part of the Peek that ...

This might be of some help for new folks just building there Max V2. I've been printing both ABS and PLA, but PLA has been troublesome giving me sloppy prints showing lots of stringers and when the hot end jumps from one feature to another it leaves material that has to be filed off. Figuring that ...

Well I decided to switch over to printing with PLA, so I programmed a test part with thin wall sections, bridges, etc.. The PLA prints great and thin wall sections are strong. Only trouble I'm having is when the extruder motor reverses I'm getting a lot of material that is going to have to be ...