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geneb wrote:Gah, that was like 2 years ago. Try 20mm/sec and see how that goes.

g.

Will try it when I get home

geneb wrote:It'll do it - I printed the 25mm hollow cube at 0.05mm along time ago. Took 2.5 hours, but it turned out amazing.

g.

what did you use for speeds and feeds

so I got my printer back up and running this weekend and I am using the stock seemecnc head. the printer is totally calibrated and prints both abs and pla great when I print .2 layer thickness. I went down to .05 layer thickness last night and the print came out like garbage. it looks as if there ...

thanks for all the replies. I will make sure there is no play. I also opened up the through hole another 10 thousandths hoping that this will help. either opening up the hole will help or totally trash the head. either way its a try.

the heat sink is cold to the touch with the fan on. I'm not sure where the issue is occurring. my guess is after the heat sink since the heat sink is cold

Checked temp. its plenty hot. I tried going up to 240C for ABS and I still had the same issue. I also tried pla at 160C,165C,170C,175C and had the exact same issues that happen with ABS I also tried redoing the RTV silicone around the thermistor. nothing has worked. Most likely will be throwing the ...

so I decided to make the upgrade from the stock head to an E3d head. I got everything set up and went to go print the first print and it printed the skirt beautifully. then printed the perimeter of the part perfectly and then just stopped extruding plastic. I am using ABS. the extruding motor is ...

so I updated repitier host this past weekend and now the printer wont connect. I plug the usb in and here the computer recognizes it under the device manager as a Rambo board. then in repitier host I click connect and it gives me a message saying failure to connect to COM port 3. I checked the baud ...

no it is in my breezeway. no fans, no a/c, no open doors, not next to anything but my tablet that I use for printing. its on a glass desk. It is the only electrical thing in the room. this is why I am struggling to come up with a cause. I don't want to just strap a fan to it because that is just ...

The extruder motor never used to get hot not even to the touch and I've printed in 85F ambient temps for upwards of 20 hours and never had a problem. now all of the sudden I have an issue where the extruder stepper motor gets hot enough to melt incoming PLA within 15 minutes of starting the print ...

the issue of the main board not powering up has been solved. it was a bad f3 fuse. the issue of the extruder motor over heating is still there. it never used to even get hot and had well over 400 hours of great printing. now it over heats to the point where it melts the incoming PLA. this issue was ...

my main question is why did the extruder motor just randomly start getting hot enough to melt the plastic it is feeding in after constant use since last January. I am at work right now but will retest the fuses when I get home. I did already check and verify that the psu is in fact putting out 12 V ...

I checked the main fuse and the two small square fuses. I took both of them out of the board to check them with a multimeter they both read fine.

So I have had an issue with the stepper motor that is used for the extruder on my rostock max over heating and melting the pla plastic before it enters the tube to go to the head. so I wanted to add a fan to cool it. this issue with over heating just started after more the 400 hrs of perfect use on ...

so i have a rostock max and its calibrated to within an inch of its life. i have heard of a website where you sign up and you can 3d print things for people and they pay you via paypal and then you mail the print to them. what is the website? has anyone had any luck making some side money?

So I printed out a cup holder last night and woke up this morning and it was done. But now the printer wont print and when I restart the printer the screen says what temps the bed and nozzle are for about 2 seconds. The bed says 20 and the head says -18 then after 2 seconds the numbers go away and ...

So I have the following settings Extruder 235c Bed 70c Infill 10% honeycomb Speed 60mm/m Layer height .2 mm Nozzle diameter .3mm I still have issues where there are either small cracks between sone layers on things that are printed with thick walls. On things with thin walls (tried to print a piggy ...

Tried new temps and no fan...works like a charm

It is abs I know it was abs from the start. What settings should I be using

So I bought a rostock max v2 assembled from a forum member and after calibration I ran a print. I preinted a bolt about 1 in in diameter and it warped really bad, so much so that it not only warped from the build surface but also between layers. I dont know why this would happen. I never had this ...

Im looking to buy a functioning and build rostock max. I am a college student and dont have the time to build a kit. I can pay via U.S. postal money order

What are the issues

Has this sold

Thanks for the fast reply to everyone. Im thinking about buying a better power supply since ive read of issues with voltage drops.

So I will be purchasing a rostock max v2 sometime next month. I have started doing some reading. What are the common problems people have run into with either assembly or operation of the printer. I will be upgrading from the H1 so I am not a total novice. I have already read about the motor ...