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Steppers, glass plate, thermocouple, G2 Belt, layer fan are ordered. Overhaul Monday night.

Still having failures, with some good parts, but high percentage spaghetti producing of failures. The same gcode produces both great looking parts, as well as "skipping steps" failed prints. I'm thinking I've got nothing to lose by replacing the belts and pulleys. What is the length of the belts on ...

Dan - Well, I tried that method once, and it still skipped after I was done. I did not have a nice small wrench like in the photos. My much larger adjustable wrench could not achieve the suggested angle, and kept slipping off the nut until a third hand became available. So far so good on this print ...

Well...maybe it CAN be done...but not by me. I took out the stepper. I don't think it was the pulley...I think the belt was just a tad too lose. Still made the click sound after tightening the pulley, so my son helped be my third and forth hands to get the belt nice a tight, and now all three towers ...

Ahh...so it can be done. Thanks for the "magic angle" photo. You named it well.

Argg. What is the size of "the included" allen hex wrench!?

Is removing the stepper motor the best way to tighten this?

I think the splatter is from a combination of hairspray and misprints. No joke, I've probably printed 6 pounds of spaghetti in the last month or two.

There is/was no noticeable flopping around. The inside strand of the belts felt tight. The outside strand felt very floppy, but because of how they are inside the extrusion channel, I had to feel them from "inside the acrylic" after they exit the extrusion channel to see how loose they felt. Now ...

With two belts tightened, I got a good print my first try.

Went ahead and tightened the other belt too, and am starting another part...

What's the best way to "check" them? Is there a way to check that without getting (and finding/buying) an allen key to fit in that tiny space? From the photos, can you take an educated guess about which tower I should focus on? You can see the ezStruder, as orientation reference. I got the acrylic ...

I have an Orion with about 890 hours on it. It has printed without issue for the first 840 hours or so, other than blowing a heating resistor. When it blew the resistor, I upgraded to an E3D v6, which has also performed well. It's developed a problem where it seems to be missing steps, potentially ...

If I preheat higher than I've set up the print job, my Max will wait at the start of a job to cool down before it'll begin the print. Looks like you need to use the M140 to set the target bed temp before you wait for it with M190. And you're never going to hit a target of 0. So maybe something like ...

teoman - If I can reliably get a part to break loose from the bed, I can use gcode to move the arms to push the part off the bed, then start another print without human intervention.

A work in progress...

Hmm. OK. I guess a dwell is the next best option...

Waiting for the bed to cool (and the part break loose), for a part eject routine to run.

What is gcode I can run, after setting the bed to a colder temperature, to wait for that lower bed temperature to be hit before proceeding? It seems like M116 SHOULD work, but does not. Here's a quick test...maybe I'm doing it wrong. That last G28 is called immediately, even though bed (and extruder ...

I watched Gene's youtube video on how to install them.

Which video? Can you point me to it?

Helpful thread, thank you. I am trying to figure out if a cartridge heater is a better next step, or not. Started another thread, as it's a bit of a stand alone topic.

In the previous thread, I noted I blew the heating resistor... Need something I can get fast an cheap...Amazon Prime is ideal. Just found a thing on Cartridge Heaters vs. Resistors. Seems easier for a novice to switch out fast...no?...with better precision and life. ?? Is one easy to swap in? Attach ...

I think I popped a heating resistor. Hotend won't top 170C, and resistance shows to be about 9 ohm. 1. Is there a guide on how to replace these? Seems simple enough, but the devil is in the details, like what do I use for that orange goo that's in the holes? What's the best way to access the wires ...

I'm having the issue of loosing feed traction every 30 minutes or so. If I hold the release and push the plastic, I can get it moving again...of course, I have to catch it the moment it looses traction. The stuff looks awesome, but I can't get a good part from it. I had this type of slippage at ...

Just tried MC for the first time last night, the version from SeeMeCNC. I like the interface and app a lot...but I can't get a good print. Trying to stick as close to the defaults provided in the SeeMeCNC build as I can. I can never get ABS to stick to the bed unless first later temp is 245. After ...