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Has anyone tried to print type for a Letterpress?

I suspect that it won't stand up to a lot of prints, and the quality might not be there for small point fonts. But just wondering if anyone has tried it.

Also need to figure out if the inks will softness some of the different plastics.

-Max

I use a center punch, 3 dots, .35mm, 5 dots .5mm

It would be nice to have some kind of option to turn the fan on when you're printing area for a layer gets below a certain mm2. I had a part with and offset cam, and shaft that globbed up on the shaft. Everything else was perfect. So I created a set of 10mm diameter tubes of different heights that I ...

You're in Texas, you're still alone. Unless he lives in your house, he's still probably a tank of gas away. Don't get me wrong I like Dallas, and have many friend there. But nothing is close together in Texas, even in the city everything is spread out.

The Sparkfun stepper came in today, they don't have connectors on the end, so now I have to go and get those... unless I have some extra in the rambo box.. Someone asked why I didn't just get the traxis balls. Well I've been tooling away in the shop, and figured I had most of the parts already. I ...

The cloud can bring services to a lot of people that don't have the money to host locally, or just need occasional functionality. It also forces developers to think bigger than 1 test case. But one huge warning! http://www.codespaces.com/ Hackers got into their cloud control panel, and deleted ...

http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=5648

There's the link.

It's a tif file, so you have to download and view it outside of the browser

I can see were a finer grain stepper could cause miss steps, but only if the head speed exceeds the processing threshold. That will make the over all print time longer. When the controller has limited processing capabilities, it makes more sense to put interpolation/curve smoothing in the slicing ...

I have a beast of a system (16 cores/32 threads), so I have no problem with 1000 segments in a circle. Non-multi threaded slicers are not in my vocabulary. But you're right a lot of the canned STL files are horrible. Sometimes they make me wonder if they even printed out the item to begin with. The ...

I'm just looking to see if I can get smoother curves. I've printed a few parts that should have been round, and were pretty round. But needed a little cleanup, and I'm looking at trying to reduce that cleanup.

I bought these before I read about he traxxis ball ends.

Anyone have a 0.9 stepper recommendation?

I'm seeking recommendations for a 0.9 degree stepper motor(need part number) that would be a good replacement/upgrade for the stock 1.8 degrees Rostock Max 2 steppers. I've come up with a different method to attach the ball bearing to a screw for the Magnetic arms. I grind a small cup into a ...

I've spent a little time wondering about what would work best, and I ended up at the Van Der Waals force. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van_der_Waals_force So you need the right material that will bond to the heater plate, and bond with the hot filament, but release when cooled. Now to understand the ...

Am I mistaken for believing the it's mail fraud if you cash the check before you ship? I have a close friend that had a business that ran into problems with a supply line. He started cashing checks before he had the product/shipped it. Along with some other mismanagement, he got nailed in the courts ...

I would make the flat part that the spool rests, on a little curved. Having two edges like that can cause it to creak, and hop.

I added a layer of clear glossy packing tape to reduce friction. I never hear a noise from spool anymore.

no gravity = no air currents. cooling fins don't do anything if there is no air flow.

Granted there will be some air flow because the air is always recycled in the station. But it might not be enough to cool parts that are 200C.

I added a very small piece of heat shrink tubing to end side of the resistor, and then wrapped it foil until it was a tight fit. Then just enough RTV on the ends to make sure it didn't move around. I cooked my first set of resistors when I just had RTV there. So I figured I would sink the heat away ...

Same disclaimer. I was considering rainbow loom bands, 600 for $2.50, or grab a few from the kids... add two or more for more force. Since I still need to print my connection plates I could add them.

[disclaimer: I'm in the process of going magnetic, and trying a lot of different things. Some might not pan out.]


Why not use a cap?
It would snap on and off for maintenance, but should hold the ball in place in cases of high torque.

I've seen this also. The stepper is acting like a generator, and creating a small charge. That's why it's best to not move the steppers by hand unless you have to.

Old is relative here. You might end up being one of the younger ones.

I just realized I could probably 3d print that top piece... if I keep a fan on for the middle I'm sure it would work.

I was thinking something like this. nozzle.jpeg This would be a drop in replacement. The problem is the top doesn't have a wide enough brim to drill holes in to put screws. But you could put a washer there and drill holes in that. I have a old stock hot end that the peek melted a bit on. So I was ...

I'm actually working on design where the PEEK part is ceramic, but it doesn't directly replace the current PEEK piece. It requires 2(or 3) screws to squeeze the ceramic piece in place. You still have the PEEK fan, but it pulls air throw a hollow section of the ceramic to cool the PETF tube in the ...