Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

how about this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:304011

ok is there something i need to do before that? backup? or simply modify the maxtemp value then upload? You should just modify the setting in configuration.h then upload. Make sure that the maxtemp value you are changing is for the extruder. thank you i have done it and everything is good what ...

ok
is there something i need to do before that? backup? or simply modify the maxtemp value then upload?

Hi
i have installed E3D and i don't know where to start to increase the temp limit on the hot end. searched for a guide with no luck.
can i change it from EEPROM configuration in repetier host?

JohnStack wrote:I do a cool head lift when I see someone in an oncoming car that I know.

you must be better than the the slicers i use

Yep that was the issue no matter what speed i set the layer was too fast while i was watching the print i noticed that it did not retract when the print head was waiting so there was filament still going but at the end it was easy to move off by hand. in regards of retraction, haven't touch them it ...

after i fixed my orion i was trying to get the small parts to print right with all the slicers except simplify.
non of them worked right with the small nubs and i changed alot of factors in cooling and still no luck until i used "Cool Head Lift" in cura

I fixed the issue it was a fuse. Thank you wish someone guided us before, it would've save us the trouble of finding out the hard way :) when i searched for the right way to change the nozzle they all say heated up then twist while its hot, never said turn the power off. a simple sticky guide from ...

i print ninjaflex just fine, slowing down the printer is alot cheaper than ordering a new printer just for 1 type of filament. i couldn't make it print good quality with the ninja :( jamming and layer adhesion too and it's not the only reason i wanted a new printer, knowledge and education one ...

The flying extruder/air extruder was designed to shorten the bowden tube length to eliminate any potential issues with filament jamming/retraction, I don't think you'll run into jamming issues with it... People have printed Ninjaflex on a stock Orion... the QU-BD setup looks great, but i don't ...

That looks scary, the hanging style
but it still is bowden and it will jam the extruder with rubber filament

On a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to convert EZstruder (if possible) to traditional one?
did anyone did it before?
i am asking this because some type of filament does not work well with the bowden style extruder and i am trying to not buy a new printer

The sitting you describe is what i was using before trying to fix the issue and the problem was worse. and yes to my knowledge the fan is for PLA but i figured that the issue was there was not enough time for the layer to cool off before the next one start. i want to make sure that it's a setting ...

im having this issue with layers that less than 10-15 second (small layers) the detail never come right and i am seeking help on what to start adjusting to get it right if possible. what i tried so far: set the fan on 30% if layer time is below 10 second slow the speed to 8 if layer time is below 30 ...

Thank you
i don't have a replacement fuse but i ordered a couple.
however by looking at them can i identify a bad one? i mean the small ones (they look ok to me)
also the big one is for the heated bed so i can skip checking that.

Eric wrote:A short seems a likely cause, given what you were doing. Check the fuses on the Rambo.

i sure hope so
where are they located?

today i turned the printer on and rise the temp of the nozzle to 240 to change the nozzle then when i was trying to hold the hotend with a wrench suddenly the screen turned off and no blinking lights from the bored :( all i hear is the PSU fan... is it possible that i short something in the hotend ...

Thanks guys that was helpful.

Hi i noticed when im printing a large object on one corner the nozzle is too far from the build plate and that is causing the first layer to be almost on air. do i adjust it from the scows? or somewhere in the software? calibrate bed and bed radius, see Orion Manual, page 25 I believe. there is ...

Hi
i noticed when im printing a large object on one corner the nozzle is too far from the build plate and that is causing the first layer to be almost on air.
do i adjust it from the scows? or somewhere in the software?

i can't print anything with this stopping issue also my printer come with 0.91 from the start and im printing with the SD card the strange thing is when the print stop and i try to navigate to the card its empty... i must unplug the SD card then plug it back tried to slice with cura and slic3r same ...

i can't print anything with this stopping issue also my printer come with 0.91 from the start and im printing with the SD card the strange thing is when the print stop and i try to navigate to the card its empty... i must unplug the SD card then plug it back tried to slice with cura and slic3r same ...

Nylocke wrote:*quietly whispers "Ultimachine Polycarbonate"*

sadly the orion can't go over 250c

Hi i am new here :) i have been printing with NinjaFlex since 3 days my printer is the Orion no mods im printing with 10 mm speed and 230C the last print is still running for 14 hours all the layers looks very good (still about 8 hours left) but the main issue is the oozing it is something i could ...